Hello everyone,

We are thrilled to join you all for this AMA. We are Barry Liu and Kira Luo from the Anycubic R&D team. Barry is responsible for the Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo, and Kira is in charge of the Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro.

https://imgur.com/a/A3rD3Gx

Two months ago, Anycubic launched two exciting new products: the Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo and the Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro. Since their release, these products have captured the attention of 3D printing enthusiasts around the world. Now that more users have started using these printers, we believe it’s the perfect time to engage with you, answer your questions, and gather your valuable feedback.

We understand that creating reliable, user-friendly 3D printers is crucial to everyone. Our goal is to ensure that these products meets your expectations and helps you achieve your creative projects. Your input is invaluable in helping us improve and innovate.

This AMA will start at 6:00 AM EST on 4th July, and we will get back to you from 3 AM EST to 6 AM EST on 5th July so that most of you from all over the world can participate. Barry Liu, Kira Luo, and I will be here for at least 3 hours to answer as many questions as possible.

We’re here to discuss everything from troubleshooting and tips to advanced features and future updates. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced maker, we’re eager to hear from you and help enhance your 3D printing experience.

PS: We're aware that there might be many interesting and important questions that cannot be answered due to the time limit. We will try my best to answer them in the coming week.

Thanks for the support of r/3Dprinting and r/anycubicofficial community.

Looking forward to your questions!

Best regards,

The Anycubic R&D Team

925 sterling silver

A couple of my WLED projects. I designed the hanging one to use addressable rgb strips, and the lower one uses custom designed PCB strips.

Have anyone else noticed this ? The slower you print, the shiner your surfaces get.

Printed on my Ankermake M5c out of a dual silk pla.

As requested in the previous post, I have conducted the same test using same color (white).

1.PLA - Hatchbox - White - Printed in Mk3s 2.PLA - Bambu Lab Basic - White - Printed in A1 Mini default profile 

Previous post for reference
First, let me clarify something: I knew it wasn’t a 100% fair comparison between green and white at first. However, I posted the video to highlight the huge difference I observed, which surprised me. I knew the color wasn’t the only factor, though it does play a role. I've printed many Hatchbox filaments in green, orange, and black, all of which were tested for AC vent clips. Thats why i end up using white . It performed slightly better, but not as significantly as yesterday's test. As seen in the video with the thermometer, the temperature difference around 4c, but overall it was a valuable test.

For first clip inside the car as you can see the the middle sample already soft check the lips of the clips dropped, i couldn’t do the test inside the car it was really hot with naked hand

So i left it to cool till around 76 c then tested

For the previous post, the majority of comments were about the color, which is a valid point. However, there are two comments I suggest giving a look at:

• by u/ensoniq2k ( PLA can be annealed to improve its heat resistance )

• by u/thekakester( Additives in PLA filaments, such as color pigments, plasticizers, stabilizers, and flow enhancers, can change thermal properties. )

Additional info:

1. The white PLA Hatchbox piece has been inside the car for 8 months.
2. The white PLA Hatchbox piece was printed on an Mk3s default profile, which is three times slower than the A1 Mini.
3. The white and green Bambu Basic filaments were printed on an A1 Mini default profile

Same file, same settings. Five cold pulls to get the crap out. I don't print with any fancy filaments but still found a build up of black flakes. It was a slow degradation of print quality over two long prints. This was a good learning experience.

This thing is bloody nice for the price point. Took my time setting it up, ran calibration and made my first print. It's been done for about 5 minutes and still feel pretty stuck.

How do I get this off? Afraid to use too much force.

Some of you may have seen my previous post about a brand new defective P1S. I have an update and its not good. Anyone who is thinking of buying from this company should pay attention.

1. Printer was purchased brand new less than a few weeks ago.
2. After initial startup and print there was a loud knocking noise coming from somewhere inside the frame. See video. Sound is not normal, confirmed by other Bambu Labs owners.
3. I contacted Bambu Labs and after some minor trouble shooting they told me to ignore it and reduce the speed of my printer! Chat transcription below.
4. After posting this exact same message in the Bambu Labs forum it was removed.

Im considering options on how to proceed, what would you do?

https://reddit.com/link/1dv7944/video/wnsugl3z9iad1/player

https://preview.redd.it/0vcviwmz9iad1.png?width=1168&format=png&auto=webp&s=41a76812912a6d045e0c6ac1d65cfba994b89e37

I'm live on Twitch, YouTube and Kick

Has anyone got any advice to get smoother and more even surfaces on the Z axis. Print settings are: 0.12 mm layer height 0.4 mm nozzle 3 vertical shells 25mm/s on external perimeters 40mm/s on perimeters Printer: Creality Ender 3 S1

Never done any CAD or 3d printing before, got my X1 yesterday and gave this a go. Very impressed with the results!

They're keyrings for party bags for my son's science themed birthday party.

Sorry I don't have the file in hand.

It looks like it's huge and it is but I hope it fits ok with my beard and all. Gorilla glue and PLA welding for the win.