What do y’all think? They were the priciest option, yet they had the best reviews. PETG filament.

I mean, it's beautiful, and the detail is crazy good. I made it on Itslitho.com and used their setting suggestions (mostly) .15 layer height, 50 mm/sec speed, 100% infill. But it started off saying it would be 6 hours, and turned into two and a half times that.

Is that what is to be expected? Does someone have some tried and true printer profiles for lithophanes?

Thanks in advance!

Our dog Koda is very awkward as soon as the camera comes out. He loves his treats, which gave me the idea to create a treat holder that can attach to our camera's hot shoe.

I worked a treat (pun intended), so decided to add tripod and phone mount options as well. It should work for small toys for those that aren't as food motivated.

Let me know what you think and if you want to print your own. Be sure to share the resulting photos, as pet tax is expected ;)

❄️ Boosting the Efficiency of a Single-Hose Portable AC – Up to 30% Improvement! I thought I’d share my experience in case others are facing similar issues. I have an Airwell MFH012-C41 portable air conditioner (same principle applies to Midea, Trotec, and Comfee models as well). It’s a single-hose system, which means it uses indoor air to cool the condenser and then blows the hot air outside through one hose. The problem is: this creates negative pressure in the room, which draws warm outside air back in through cracks and gaps — essentially canceling out the cooling effect. 🛠️ What did I do? I basically converted it into a dual-hose system. The original exhaust hose stayed in place, but I designed a completely new outlet for it. Both ends of the hose now have quick-release connections, so it’s easy to remove or reposition. I also made a separate intake hose, which brings in outside air directly to the condenser. That way, the unit doesn’t pull air from the room anymore — and that alone makes a huge difference. I extended both hoses so they don’t sit flush with the window. They go through a 1 mm thick pressed wood panel, mounted in the wall, with the hose openings 30 cm apart, angled 45° outward and slightly downward. This prevents the intake and exhaust from mixing and also provides some protection from rain.

📊 What were the results? I set the room temperature to 24 °C, and the AC ran for about 8 hours a day. Keep in mind, the building has virtually no insulation (just plaster walls, with standard double-glazed windows). Energy consumption comparison (in 32 °C outdoor max temp): With the original single-hose setup: ➤ 5.68 kWh/day (average over 5 days) With the DIY dual-hose mod: ➤ 3.91 kWh/day (measured over 1 day) While the dual-hose number is based on just one day, it's already showing about 30% improvement — and the cooling felt noticeably better.

🌬️ Subjective impressions: Cooling is clearly more efficient and even. No more warm air being sucked back into the room, the AC doesn’t have to work as hard, and the cool air feels more noticeable. Room layout: Living room: 4.5 × 4 m Hallway: 1.4 × 4 m Bedroom: 4.5 × 3 m The rooms are laid out in a U-shape: living room → 90° left turn into hallway → another 90° left into the bedroom. Kitchen and bathroom doors stay closed. I use a fan to circulate air between rooms, and the temperature distribution is much more even now.

https://www.printables.com/model/1348047-single-hose-to-dual-hose-ac-diy-airwell-midea-trot

I've dreamt of making this for a long time and finally built the first prototype. Imagine being able to control car launches and know exact finish times on any track built at home. Basically, Hot Wheels 2.0, the next generation! 😃

I made a short vid with more details on the project here: https://youtu.be/GKDqIjo_uAQ

The two parts can be printed easily with minimal support in just a few hours. The system launches cars using a servo motor at the start gate, controlled by ESP32. The finish gate has an IR sensor that detects the car passing, also controlled by an ESP32 that talks to the first board. All this is controlled and viewed inside a simple web app that's hosted on the ESP32 Server/AP - simply connect in the browser, no download needed.

Yes you guessed it right! they are terrible, just like the way they look. Sound is thinner and not at all comfortable to wear.

I printed them in TPU and I think results would be different with a fresh spool or a filament dryer and a slow print.

We build an architecture model for client using 3D Printing and Laser Cutting. For those interested in how we made this project from scratch - https://youtu.be/HhwlLECfMIk?si=HfGNRc4s68sMM0G9

What do you guys think? Took about 40 print hours and a lot of super glue.

Stumbled upon this design file on Printables, what caught my attention is it being the first time I find a scale model that’s not only actually printable but extremely detailed and not cartoonish like everything else on the internet. Every part was printable, detailed, down to the functioning steering, doors, hood/trunk and a fully detailed engine. It did require a few m3 screws to assemble (purchased a 100+ piece are on Amazon for around $10). This was my first major print and thankfully the designer included an assembly guide.

This has been a massive learning experience for me as I’m new to 3D printing, smoothing/sanding/filling/prep and I’m new to air brushing as well. My decision to prep and paint the model drastically increased my time to put it together but I can honestly say it’s been my funnest print/build to date and really catapulted my love for 3D printing/scale models.

I designed and printed this little resin mold holder for a chess pawn mold, and put an indented pawn symbol on it to make it easy to tell what piece it is, and it has these little ripples of the shape off to either side- I noticed the same thing around joystick holes on a controller I printed about 6 months ago. I’m curious what causes this? (Printed on an Ender 3 in PLA with .2mm layers)

Can't wait to get this finished up tomorrow, it's been around 32hrs~~ of printing over the last few days

Another 8ish hrs to go for the last main section and flaps.

Ship: https://fab365.net/items/1633

I have for last few months being playing around again with MiniDisc players and discs. Since I have a 3D printer i thought to myself that there must be some better ways to store the discs (i do not like the cassettes they come in.) So I found a few different 3D printer jewel case inlays for Minidisc. Again, I didn’t really like them. Så I thought I would try designing my own. Hit Tinkercad and came up with this design. And i must say it work just like I wanted it to. 😁

Started life as a base model (non-pro) Ender 3, which I got in 2022 for $68 "unrepaired" on eBay. Then, I made a series of financially irresponsible decisions over a 3 year period.

410 x 410 x 350 build area, Ender Extender 400 kit with custom Z extrusions

Textured PEI buildplate

600W mains bed heater

Full linear railsBelted Z (dual motors with alignment shaft)

SKR Mini E3V3 mainboard + Raspberry Pi 4b -- Klipper

Microswiss direct drive bracket and extruder

Spider v3 Pro High Flow hot end with 60W heater

PT1000 thermocouple, up to 400 C

VORON Afterburner cooling shroud, modified

BTT Eddy Duo bed scanning / homing

Permanent ADXL345 accelerometers on each axis

Bigger motors everywhere (48mm on Y)

Logitech web cam7" touch screen

Custom Z braces with M6 heim joints

LED strip all around the gantry and uprights

Storage bins below the bed for tools and parts

Cable chains everywherePrinted belt tensioners

Filament runout sensor

A lot more that I'm forgetting! All parts printed in ASA or CF Nylon, generally.

Blade was printed in Bambu Labs translucent PETG. The handle is grey PETG and a metal bar through the center for stability. Was my first “big” printing project and I’m happy with how it turned out.

About 10 years ago I drew the starter pokemon in tribal tattoo inspired style. I've been helping somebody else design some light boxes and thought my drawing would be cool printed that way too. I'm so happy with how they turned out and now I have an excuse to draw more pokemon this way and turn them into light boxes as well.