I designed a simple motion activated light up fishing lure. The circuit uses a tilt switch to activate the small led for flashing effect and a super capacitor for fast charging (30 seconds) and lasts for around 2 hours of use. I also made a simple charger with a buck converter to limit the amount of voltage going to the capacitor.

Designed and made this waterproof case for a Holley terminator screen. This was for a friends airboat so it would be exposed to the elements. I also 3D printed the molds to make custom gaskets and cable glands out of silicone putty.

First there was the tunnel that didn't fit the new (taller) electric trains, then there was the bridge connector that snapped many many moons ago. What will be the next Brio improvement? I love that my adult hobby is enabling my childhood hobby to continue to live on for my children!

I 3d printed this little tool to remove caked greasy sawdust from the long axis of a 5x10 cnc wood router I recently purchased. It didn’t work exactly like I planned but it worked perfectly well compared to using a rag like I had started. Ball screw is a 4 start 36mm pitch 2.5mm ball. I should have made the OD larger so it would be easier to turn. Had to take it apart several times and clean the grunge from the tool. I had designed a sort of geometry on the cutting edge similar to what you would find on a lathe turning tool but it was not long enough.

Inspired by a router jig by 3x3 custom, I printed up the base with the wings underneath. This jig made it way easier to create a fairly large mortise, 1” wide and almost an inch deep along the side of this floating shelf. It’s basically like having two edge guides at the same time, so I just moved side to side. Made pretty quick work of this mortise, and the handles make it pretty easy to control, even with the dust extractor connected.

Man this 3D printer is cool.

Had this Poang chair from IKEA that my roomba would climb over and get stuck on. Made some feet to raise it a few mm while retaining the front support to keep it from tipping over forward.

Hello! I didn't have a good spot for either of these accessories. The puck screen would add to the Profitec GO's rattles when I put it on top of the machine and I kept knocking over the spray bottle, so I decided to make a holder for each of them that gets them off the counter and.sitting above the rim and easy to grab.

The hook fits up to about a 3mm thick rim and from looking around will probably work on a bunch of other machines. Let me know if you're interested in a version with some tweaks to make it work for your machine.

Models can be found here: RDT Holder: https://makerworld.com/models 1820418 Screen Holder: https://makerworld.com/models/797877

One of the main reasons I wanted a 3D printer so bad was to finally fix the cosmetic and functional issues on my 40+ year-old Sub Zero refrigerator - mainly the shelving, though the produce drawers were kinda jacked up as well. The issues with parts on these things is that there are none for a 40+ year old Sub Zero, and even if there were, I'm very certain that I could pay for my printer with the $$$ I would have to shell out for the parts I needed.

I was able to print new shelving brackets and made new shelves, and documented that process here: https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/comments/1gcqtb6/sub_zero_refrigerator_door_shelves/

The next project involved making new slider brackets for the lower drawers in the refrigerator portion - one of which was completely broken and one that had plastic bearings that were totally worn out and flat-spotted. These were just as much of a challenge since the only way to duplicate them would be to do a draw it up in Fusion 360 and then print. My Fusion skills are rudimentary at best, but after the shelving project, I was feeling more at home, so I thought I could give it a go.

With about 4-5 hours in Fusion 360, I was able to produce an almost exact copy of one of the brackets (the unbroken left side), and I was able to make it even better by making the walls thicker, the screw hole walls thicker and used real metal bearings instead of the cheesy plastic bearings that were originally installed.

Because the brackets were much longer than the print bed of my X1 Carbon could print, I imported the .stl, then cut the bracket into two pieces, mirrored both pieces (for the right side) and stood them vertically to print. I made a rectangular piece to fill in the channel in the rear of each part and used a negative part cylinder to cut out the relief for one of the screw holes, which then allowed me to super-glue the two bracket pieces together. Once the glue dried, they are MASSIVELY stronger than the original pieces.

I sourced some 6x19x6mm metal bearings from Amazon (10 for $7). I printed small (2mm) sleeves/spacers for the new bearings and replaced all the cheesy plastic bearings that were original equipment, and now each drawer glides like butter - smoother than I have experienced in 22+ years with this refrigerator.

I know it's kinda weird to get jazzed about pieces of plastic for a refrigerator, but there is something SO satisfying about having an idea, measuring and drawing it out, printing it and having it work EXACTLY as you envisioned the first time!

This hobby is getting way too addicting...

Brackets cut in two pieces and printed vertically

Sliced and shows the rectangular stiffener with circular relief that would be glued into channel on the rear of each part

Front side of part

Rear side of part

Fusion 360 sketch

(L-R): Broken right bracket, replacement right bracket w/new bearing, replacement left bracket w/new bearing, original left bracket

TOP: Original left bracket and replacement - BOTTOM: Replacement right bracket, original broken right bracket

(L-R) Replacement bearing spacer, new bearing, old bearing

New bearing installed on drawer

Made my own metal detector and needed a custom housing for the electronics and coil. Uses an aftermarket carbon shaft and arm cuff, everything else I designed and 3D printed.

I was tired of paying $80 per cage to individually raise my chameleons, so I came up with this design that allows me to make a cage with $11,50