Checkout the full making of, if you're interested: https://youtu.be/AnhbRxJ29AM?si=TPw29wXfqqoAzQFN

240x240x450 (extension files ready) - You can find the files here https://www.printables.com/model/1264020-garbage-bin-24x24x45x-cm

Our original bell button always gets nasty from the weather and needs to be cleaned or replaced. The only weatherproof button I could give was too wide for the door jamb. To complicate things further the concrete wall sticks out any 1/2" beyond the door frame. So I modeled up an adapter to bolt to the two original button holes. Added an o-ring groove in the back and used heat set inserts in the front letter from ABS the sanded and painted for weather resistance. Fits perfectly and works great

All of the "non-functional" parts are 3D printed or aluminium extrusions, so total cost is below 200$. It isn't the fastest, but still fairly precise with an accuramcy of +<0.3mm. This was my first try, I'll try to mill aluminium soon.

I had to cover some exterior holes on the back of the Pickup after taking of the "Rollbar". Iterations later i fount a fitting shape.

I found this OM T32 flash at a local Salvation Army. Back in 1981 when I got my OM10 in high school, the T20 flash cost me $29.00, quite a significant investment for me when I was making $3.35 an hour at a 10/hr week job. Back in ‘81 the T32 was an cost prohibitive upgrade to my photography hobby costing $89 and I would’ve saved up the $149 for a Zuiko 75-150mm f4 zoom before buying a T32. So imagine my surprise to see this almost perfect T32 sitting in a bargain bin at Salvation Army, almost perfect save for the missing battery cover. Sure, I could’ve bought a replacement battery cover for $10 + shipping but this is the very reason I bought a 3D printer, to fix and make useful things. I also could’ve printed it in black PETG but I was too lazy to change out the filament, so amber PETG was what I used. I kind of like printing these replacements in a different color; it’s a reminder that I was able to design and make a replacement for something that would’ve otherwise been overlooked or tossed out.

...these doors are made from thin shit.

I had a spare NF-A15 lying around along with a voltage converting usb to fan cable (this one) so I decided to scale and refit that airflow amplifier from Noctua to fit that one. In order to keep in the theme, the fan grill at the back side is also a remix from Noctua's model, included in the stand with 5mm spacing to the fan to minimize any noise - as per Noctua's recommendations! The stand doesn't work as well as intended (it's the first version after all) and the cable is inconveniently short, but the fan set works well!

STL for the airflow remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7009187

Wooden handles, though nice they are, are not compatible with modern life and dishwashers. This frying spatula was in need of a new handle. Age is unknown, but the manufacturer Karlsson & Nilsson Knivfabrik seem to have ended operation in.. 1970? How many Swedish made frying spatulas remain, I wonder.

Anyway, took me a few minutes to whip something up in FreeCAD, and did a few < 1 cm printouts of both top and bottom to confirm fit and aesthetics. I managed to get the logo printed on the end of the handle, though it could've been done better, perhaps with ironing.

The filament is Creality PETG. Printed on a textured PEI, with a bit of brim, 20% gyroid infill, 3 walls, and fuzzy skin. Cura said 5:35 to print, but ended up taking only 4½ hours. Not bad for a cheap printer (Ender 3 V3 SE). I filled the slot with silicon and inserted the spatula tab. It'll take a few days until it's cured, but it's a tight fit already.

The big test comes when it's dishwasher time.

I own a brewery and the bottom pipe on our fermenters gets hoses and other heavy fixtures connected to it. Without support it could pop off, spilling hundreds of gallons of beer on the floor. We used a paint can as a support for years but I finally got a printer so I made some proper supports!

Holds most of the bits I need to solder or heat set anything pretty quickly, including room for two small rolls of wire.

I recently moved in and I have put my printer on a cheap IKEA furniture.
It is stable from Y axis vibration but oscillate a lot on the X axis.
The furniture cannot be sticked to the wall because of the lower plinth.
So I created a support and it fit perfectly on the print. Now the stand is very stable !

One day, I noticed the bird feeder on the ground since the factory design has the yellow cord between the roof. Over time, the cord was being chaffed through due to swinging in the wind, eventually cutting the cord. I tried using yellow duct tape to slow down the inevitable... but friction and gravity won. A couple of days and several revisions later (going from left to right in photo 3). I printed myself upgraded mounts using Polylite ASA. I used M3 hardware I had laying around and some Loctite and some knots to hold everything together, so far so good.

Elegoo RAPID PETG 0.4mm nozzle 0.1mm layer height Smooth PEI plate