For the Labubu Hype! Ist Free Available on: https://makerworld.com/models/1579110

Looking for someone who can 3d print a very small safety emergency clip that goes on my motorcycle helmet, the company that makes the small piece is in Spain and dosent sell it just by itself! I will pay for it but please help!!!

Assembly-type prints can sometimes be really frustrating.Even though you can see the dimensions in the slicer, it’s usually safer to print one part first, measure it manually, and then print the next one.I wonder if there's a smarter way to go about it.

I printed this big grey coral (with PLA using my FLSUN SR) and I will (eventually) make a rubber latex mold and then concrete copies. I used a 0.6nozzle (hence lots of stringing) and fuzzy skin feature (in Ultimaker 5.8.0) to get a rough texture similar to a real coral.

I'm going to be making this outline for the first try. I think it could be cool to hang somewhere or something.

For the second try, I STILL need to figure out why Blender won't open for me. Once I get Blender working I'll try that out. Again I have a nice Lenovo computer, idk why it's not working. Ugh. Frustrating.

At least I got it to vectorize properly. Very excited to see how this turns out... Just gotta wait for the printer to arrive!!

Then onto even bigger things- a standing huog figurine!

Hey folks,

I’m working on a custom manpack radio frame and I’m almost there — I have a solid concept and render, but I need someone to help me finalize a 3D model for printing. The goal is a compact, field-deployable frame for my Retevis RT95, with power supplied by two Bauer 20V batteries and regulated through a buck converter.

Here’s what I’m after: • Radio: • Retevis RT95 mounted inside a skeletonized frame • Needs to slide in and be secured with screws through the side mounts • Front display and controls must remain fully exposed • Buck Converter: • Mounted on top of the frame, just above the radio • Either a recessed “well” or flat spot to Velcro or screw it in • Needs space for clean cable routing to the power input • Battery Mounts: • Two Bauer 20V batteries • Mounted horizontally on top of the frame behind the buck converter (see image for orientation) • Batteries sit outside the frame for easy slide-in/out access • The battery adapters are built into the frame (not separate clip-ons) • Other Frame Requirements: • Fully skeletonized for weight and airflow • Designed as one integrated unit • Optional antenna mount (SMA or NMO style) • Sized to fit inside a standard admin pouch — compact and flat

I’ve uploaded a sketch and an almost-final render that shows the layout I want. The design is very close, and I think just needs some cleanup and real-world modeling for printing. I’d love help generating an STL or CAD file from someone with experience designing functional prints.

Happy to collaborate or compensate for your time. I’ll share the full build log once it’s field-ready. Appreciate any feedback or help!

This is a creature I saw in my nightmares. My family will be getting a filament 3-D printer (Ender I think?)- it's already ordered. I went in on it with 3 of my siblings.

Anyways, I want to work on making this able to be printed. I understand that I need to vectorize it and make it a SVG? I used Adobe and online converter, and the results LOOK good, until I open the file, in which case, it appears as a blank, black screen. It says that it can't open a file that small or something like that?

Also tips for using tinkercad are 100% accepted as well. I just found out about this idea today and last-minute went in on it. I'm planning on watching some YouTube vids, if anyone has any good r sources for me I'd really appreciate that.

TIA!!

This was my latest attempt after making the background transparent and using only the original lines to make it simpler/less confusing... I was really hoping it would work. It did not.

❄️ Boosting the Efficiency of a Single-Hose Portable AC – Up to 30% Improvement! I thought I’d share my experience in case others are facing similar issues. I have an Airwell MFH012-C41 portable air conditioner (same principle applies to Midea, Trotec, and Comfee models as well). It’s a single-hose system, which means it uses indoor air to cool the condenser and then blows the hot air outside through one hose. The problem is: this creates negative pressure in the room, which draws warm outside air back in through cracks and gaps — essentially canceling out the cooling effect. 🛠️ What did I do? I basically converted it into a dual-hose system. The original exhaust hose stayed in place, but I designed a completely new outlet for it. Both ends of the hose now have quick-release connections, so it’s easy to remove or reposition. I also made a separate intake hose, which brings in outside air directly to the condenser. That way, the unit doesn’t pull air from the room anymore — and that alone makes a huge difference. I extended both hoses so they don’t sit flush with the window. They go through a 1 mm thick pressed wood panel, mounted in the wall, with the hose openings 30 cm apart, angled 45° outward and slightly downward. This prevents the intake and exhaust from mixing and also provides some protection from rain.

📊 What were the results? I set the room temperature to 24 °C, and the AC ran for about 8 hours a day. Keep in mind, the building has virtually no insulation (just plaster walls, with standard double-glazed windows). Energy consumption comparison (in 32 °C outdoor max temp): With the original single-hose setup: ➤ 5.68 kWh/day (average over 5 days) With the DIY dual-hose mod: ➤ 3.91 kWh/day (measured over 1 day) While the dual-hose number is based on just one day, it's already showing about 30% improvement — and the cooling felt noticeably better.

🌬️ Subjective impressions: Cooling is clearly more efficient and even. No more warm air being sucked back into the room, the AC doesn’t have to work as hard, and the cool air feels more noticeable. Room layout: Living room: 4.5 × 4 m Hallway: 1.4 × 4 m Bedroom: 4.5 × 3 m The rooms are laid out in a U-shape: living room → 90° left turn into hallway → another 90° left into the bedroom. Kitchen and bathroom doors stay closed. I use a fan to circulate air between rooms, and the temperature distribution is much more even now.

https://www.printables.com/model/1348047-single-hose-to-dual-hose-ac-diy-airwell-midea-trot

The mobile night light — assembling it was more of a hassle than printing.
Used matte black and brown PLA, with each part taking about 30 minutes on average.
Pretty quick, actually — though I printed everything separately.

I have been testing out various settings on my Creality K2 Plus for printing ASA. Overall, I am pleased with the results. As I was doing my research, I noticed that the OrcaSlicer wiki has a lot of great (and recently added) tips and recommendations. To help myself keep track of the recommended defaults, I created a spreadsheet with all the info consolidated.

OrcSlicer Recommendations Spreadsheet

As I find more settings and recommendations, I will add additional values to the sheet. I hope you find it helpful.

Let me know if there are other great references I should add.

Hey 3D printing friends! 👋

To celebrate the launch of my Patreon, I’m giving away this adorable Flexi Mini Carnotaurus STL – completely free! 💖

🔓 Support-free

🎨 Fun to print & pose

🧩 Perfect for kids or collectors

🦕 Easy to scale & customize

This is just a taste of what I release monthly — on my Patreon (ChibiFlex), I post 7+ new STL models every month (Flexi Dinosaurs, Animals, Dragons, and more).

👉 Grab the FREE download here:

https://www.patreon.com/posts/flexi-mini-3d-133507142

❤️ If you love it, you can follow or join for access to the full pack of designs this month.

Happy printing! Let me know how your Carnotaurus turns out 🖨️✨

so i am trying to print this on a netptune 3 pro. its a sculpture and i was wondering if ANYONE would be able to give me some good input on how to set this up. i need it so there wont be any filament coming off inn ends that there isnt supposed to be filamennt.

• Printer & Slicer elegoo cura
  • Filament Material and Brand esun pla+ bone color
  • Nozzle and Bed Temperature 0.4 nozzle 220 bed temp
  • Print Speed 220
  • Nozzle Retraction Settings naPrinter & Slicer elegoo cura
  • Filament Material and Brand esun pla+ bone color
  • Nozzle and Bed Temperature 0.4 nozzle 220 bed temp
  • Print Speed 220
  • Nozzle Retraction Settings na

https://preview.redd.it/ga5u4bmw29bf1.png?width=1103&format=png&auto=webp&s=42f44787a09d92a51ace1abdcd02538f12434a87

A simple print using toothpicks as the frame.The top and bottom covers were easily printed with PLA in just one hour.It turned out beautifully.

I printed this big Brain Coral (with PLA using my FLSUN SR) so that I can make a rubber latex mold and then concrete copies. I used the fuzzy skin feature to get a rough texture, sort of like real coral.

Hh