What was the worst thing about the 70s? Some might say the oil crisis, inflation, or even disco. Others might tell you it was 8-track tapes, no matter what was on them. I’ve heard that the side of the road was littered with dead 8-tracks. But for a while, they were the only practical way to have music in the car that didn’t come from the AM/FM radio.

If you know me at all, you know that I can’t live without music. I’m always trying to expand my collection by any means necessary, and that includes any format I can play at home. Until recently, that list included vinyl, cassettes, mini-discs, and CDs. I had an 8-track player about 20 years ago — a portable Toyo that stopped working or something. Since then, I’ve wanted another one so I can collect tapes again. Only this time around, I’m trying to do it right by cleaning and restoring them instead of just shoving them in the player willy-nilly.

Update: I Found a Player

A couple of weeks ago, I was at an estate sale and I found a little stereo component player and speakers. There was no receiver in sight. I tested the player with the speakers and bought them for $15 total because it was 75% off day and they were overpriced originally. While I was still at the sale, I hooked it up to the little speakers and made sure it played and changed programs.

Well, I got it home and it no longer made sound or changed programs. I thought about the play head inside and how dirty it must be, based on the smoker residue on the front plate of the player. Sure enough, I blackened a few Q-tips and it started playing sweet tunes again. This is when I figured out it wouldn’t change programs anymore.

I found I couldn’t get very far into the player, but I was able to squirt some contact cleaner into the program selector switch. After many more desperate button presses, it finally started changing programs again. Hooray!

I feel I got lucky. If you want to read about an 8-track player teardown, check out Jenny List’s awesome article.

These Things Are Not Without Their Limitations

So now, the problem is the tapes themselves. I think there are two main reasons why people think that 8-tracks suck. The first one is the inherent limitations of the tape. Although there were 90- and 120-minute tapes, most of them were more like 40-60 minutes, divided up into four programs. One track for the left channel, one for the right, and you have your eight tracks and stereo sound.

The tape is in a continuous loop around a single hub. Open one up and you’ll see that the tape comes off the center toward the left and loops back onto the outside from the right. 8-tracks can’t be rewound, only fast-forwarded, and it doesn’t seem like too many players even had this option. If you want to listen to the first song on program one, for instance, you’d better at least tolerate the end of program four.

The tape is divided into four programs, which are separated by a foil splice. A sensor in the machine raises or lowers the playback head depending on the program to access the appropriate tracks (1 and 5, 2 and 6, and so on.)

Because of the 10-12 minute limitation of each program, albums were often rearranged to fit better within the loud solenoidal ka-chunk of each program change.

For a lot of people, this was outright heresy. Then you have to consider that not every album could fit neatly within four programs, so some tracks faded out for the program change, and then faded back in, usually in the middle of the guitar solo.

Other albums fit into the scheme with some rearrangement, but they did so at the expense of silence on one or more of the programs. Check out the gallery below to see all of these conditions, plus one that divided up perfectly without any continuations or silence.

The second reason people dislike 8-tracks is that they just don’t sound that good, especially since cassette tapes were already on the market. They didn’t sound super great when they were new, and years of sitting around in cars and dusty basements and such didn’t help. In my experience, at this point, some sound better than others. I suppose after the tape dropout, it’s all subjective.

What I Look For When Buying Tapes

The three most important things to consider are the pressure pads, the foil splices, and the pinch roller. All of these can be replaced, although some jobs are easier than others.

Start by looking at the pressure pads. These are either made of foam that’s covered with a slick surface so the tape can slide along easily, or they are felt pads on a sproingy metal thing like a cassette tape. You want to see felt pads when you’re out shopping, but you’ll usually see foam. That’s okay. You can get replacement foam on ebay or via 8-track avenue directly, or you can do what I do.

After removing the old foam and scraping the plastic backing with my tweezers, I cut a piece of packing tape about 3/8″ wide — just enough to cover the width of some adhesive foam window seal. The weatherstripping’s response is about the same as the original foam, and the packing tape provides a nice, slick surface. I put a tiny strip of super glue on the adhesive side and stick one end down into the tape, curling it a little to rock it into position, then I press it down and re-tension the tape. The cool part is that you can do all this without opening up the tape by just pulling some out. Even if the original foam seems good, you should go ahead and replace it. Once you’ve seen the sticky, black powder it can turn to with time, you’ll understand why.

Another thing you can address without necessarily opening up the tape are the foil splices that separate the programs. As long as the pressure pads are good, shove that thing in the player and let it go until the ka-chunk, and then pull it out quickly to catch the splice. Once you’ve got the old foil off of it, use the sticky part of a Post-It note to realign the tape ends and keep them in place while you apply new foil.

Again, you can get sensing foil on ebay, either in a roll, or in pre-cut strips that have that nice 60° angle to them. Don’t try to use copper tape like I did. I’ll never know if it worked or not, because I accidentally let too much tape un-spool from the hub while I was splicing it, but it seemed a little too heavy. Real-deal aluminium foil sensing tape is even lighter-weight than copper tape.

One thing you can’t do without at least opening the tape part way is to replace the pinch roller. Fortunately, these are usually in pretty good shape, but you can usually tell right away if they are gooey without having to press your fingernail into it. Even so, I have salvaged the pinch rollers out of tapes I have tried to save and couldn’t, just to have some extras around.

If you’re going to open the tape up, you might as well take some isopropyl alcohol and clean the graphite off of the pinch roller. This will take a while, but is worth it.

Other Problems That Come Up

Sometimes, you shove one of these bad boys in the player and nothing happens. This usually means that the tape is seized up and isn’t moving. Much like blowing into an N64 cartridge, I have heard that whacking the tape on your thigh a few times will fix a seized tape, but so far, that has not worked for me. I have so far been unable to fix a seized tape, but there are guides out there. Basically, you cut the tape somewhere, preferably at a foil splice, fix the tension, and splice it back together.

Another thing that can happen is called a wedding cake. Basically, you open up the cartridge and find that the inner loops of tape have raised up around the hub, creating a two-layer effect that resembles a wedding cake. I have not so far successfully fixed such a situation, but I’ve only run across one so far. Basically, you pull the loops off of the center, re-tension the tape from the other side, and spin those loops back into the center. This person makes it look insanely easy.

Preventive Maintenance On the Player

As with cassette players, the general sentiment is that one should never actually use a head-cleaning tape as they are rough. As I said earlier, I cleaned the playback head thoroughly with 91% isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips that I wished were longer.

Another thing I did to jazz up my discount estate sale player was to make a capstan-cleaning tape per these instructions on 8-Track Avenue. Basically, I took my poor Dionne Warwick tape that I couldn’t fix, threw away the tape, kept the pinch roller for a rainy day, and left the pressure pads intact.

To clean the capstan, I took a strip of reusable dishrag material and stuffed it in the place where the pinch roller goes. Then I put a few drops of alcohol on the dishrag material and inserted the tape for a few seconds. I repeated this with new material until it came back clean.

In order to better grab the tape and tension it against the pinch roller, the capstan should be roughed up a bit. I ripped the scrubby side off of an old sponge and cut a strip of that, then tucked it into the pinch roller pocket and let the player run for about ten seconds. If you listen to a lot of tapes, you should do this often.

Final Thoughts

I still have a lot to learn about fixing problematic 8-tracks, but I think I have the basics of refurbishment down. There are people out there who have no qualms about ironing tapes that have gotten accordioned, or re-spooling entire tapes using a drill and a homemade hub-grabbing attachment. If this isn’t the hacker’s medium, I don’t know what is. Long live 8-tracks!

[Sharad Shankar] repaired a broken TV by swapping out the cracked and malfunctioning image panel for a new one. Now, part-swapping is a great way to repair highly integrated modern electronics like televisions, but the real value here is something else. He documented his fix but the real useful part is his observations and guidance on how to effectively look for donor devices when the actual model of donor device can’t be found.

The usual approach to fixing a device by part swapping is to get one’s hands on two exact same models that are broken in different ways. But when it comes to consumer electronics with high turnovers — like televisions — it can be very difficult to actually locate any particular model once it’s no longer on shelves. [Sharad Shankar]’s broken TV was a 65″ TCL R646 purchased in 2021, and searching for a second 65″ TCL R646 was frankly like looking for a needle in a haystack. That’s when he got a visit from the good ideas fairy.

The first insight he had was that he didn’t actually need the exact same model of TV as a donor, he just needed the same display panel. The second insight was that TV manufacturers are absolutely using the same panels across different models of device. So he expanded his search to include similar TV models by the same manufacturer, hoping they contained the same display as the one he needed to replace.

This is more difficult than it may sound, because service manuals or similar low-level information about components in particular models of TV are not easy to find. In the end, [Sharad Shankar] did the following:

1. Collect all the specs for his (cracked screen) TV.
2. Find similar models made by the same manufacturer, preferably within a year or so.
3. Compare the specs and make a short list of models that have the same screen size, screen technology, and display features as the original. (Features unrelated to the display can change.)
4. Expand the search for a donor device to include these other potentials.

As luck would have it, he was able to locate a potential donor device on eBay thanks to his expanded search list. 75$ later, [Sharad Shankar] had the donor home and opened up to reveal some encouraging similarities between it and the broken original. A little part-swapping later, he once again had a working TV!

This method did require a bit of finger-crossing since it was impossible to be entirely certain that the parts would be compatible, but as far as calculated risks and educated guesses go, it was a solid play.

Keeping in mind that technology is designed and created by other humans and that certain things therefore are more likely than others can provide key insights when doing repair work or reverse engineering. Angles are usually clean divisions of 90°, and if calipers say 3.99 inches then it was probably actually designed as and intended to be 4.00 inches. And, as [Sharad Shankar] observed, consumer electronics like televisions are not completely redesigned and remanufactured from scratch with every model and release. Keep it in mind the next time you’re having trouble tracking down a part.

Some might consider a broken ribbon cable to be unsalvagable. They’re delicate and fragile as can be, and sometimes just fussing with them further is enough to cause additional damage. However, with the right set of skills, it’s sometimes possible to achieve the unthinkable. As [Master Liu] demonstrates, you can indeed repair a broken ribbon cable, even a tiny one.

The video concerns a ribbon cable linked to a Touch ID fingerprint sensor from an Apple device. It’s common to break these ribbon cables when repairing a phone, and doing so causes major problems. The Touch ID device is paired with the host phone, and cannot easily be replaced. Thus, repair is justified if at all possible.

The repair involves scraping back the outer coating on the two sections of ribbon cable to reveal the copper pads underneath. The copper is then coated with flux and solder to prepare them to be rejoined. Ultra-fine strands of wire are used to join the individual traces. Then, the repaired section is coated in some kind of sealant or epoxy to hold the joint together and protect it from failing again. The theory is easy, it’s just the execution that’s hard.

Ribbon cable repair is becoming one of our favorite topics of late. Sometimes you just need a steady hand and the guts to have a go. Video after the break.

While most of us are probably willing to pick up the tools and void the warranty on just about anything, often just to see what’s inside, many of us draw the line at camera gear. The tiny screws, the complex mechanisms, and the easily destroyed optical elements are all enough to scare off the average hacker. Not so for [Anthony Kouttron], who tore into a broken eBay Sigma lens and got it working again.

Now, to be fair, modern lenses tend to have a lot more in them that’s amenable to repair than back in the old days. And it seemed from the get-go that [Anthony]’s repair was going to be more electronic than optical or mechanical. The 45-mm lens was in fantastic shape physically, but wouldn’t respond to any controls when mounted to a camera body. Removing the lens bayonet mount exposed the main controller PCB, which is tightly packed with SMD components and connectors for the flex cables that burrow further into the lens to its many sensors and actuators. By probing traces with his multimeter, [Anthony] found a DC-DC converter on the main PCB with an unknown component nearby. This turned out to be an SMD fuse, and as luck would have it, it was open. Replacing the fuse got the lens working again, and while there’s always the nagging suspicion that whatever blew the fuse the first time could happen again, the repair seems to have worked.

Despite the simplicity of the fix, [Anthony] continued the teardown and shared a lot of tips and tricks for lens repairs, including where he would have looked next if the fuse had been good. One tip we loved was the use of double-sided tape to organize parts as they’re removed; this is particularly important with camera gear where screws or different lengths can make for a really bad day on reassembly.

Feeling the need to dive deeper into lens repair? This step-by-step repair should keep you satisfied.

Sometimes we get sent a tip that isn’t just a single article or video, but an entire blog or YouTube channel. Today’s channel, [Diy Otaku], is absolutely worth a watch if you want someone see giving a second life to legendary handheld devices, and our creator has been going at it for a while. A common theme in most of the videos so far – taking an old phone or a weathered gaming console, and improving upon them in a meaningful way, whether it’s lovingly restoring them, turning them into a gaming console for your off days, upgrading the battery, or repairing a common fault.

The hacks here are as detailed as they are respectful to the technology they work on. The recent video about putting a laptop touchpad into a game controller, for instance, has the creator caringly replace the controller’s epoxy blob heart with a Pro Micro while preserving the original board for all its graphite-covered pads. The touchpad is the same used in an earlier video to restore a GPD Micro PC with a broken touchpad, a device that you can see our hacker use in a later video running FreeCAD, helping them design a 18650 battery shell for a PSP about to receive a 6000 mAh battery upgrade.

These are the kinds of rebuilds you do to devices you value, and this is only reinforced by restoration videos peppered into the list. This Nintendo DS Lite restoration video is half an hour of [DiyOtaku] taking care of an old legendary handheld, with complete disassembly, cleaning the shell with a toothbrush, and then complete reassembly while not missing a single screw. Here’s a video on restoring a Nokia N73, and the next video is about giving it a USB-C charging port, so you’re not bound by old proprietary charger cabling – the kind of mod you would do for a device that matters to you.

The more we look into this channel, the more it keeps giving, and the level of care put into these devices is heartwarming. If you’re always looking for more videos to play as you solder your latest projects together, this channel is undoubtedly an underappreciated highlight, rarely breaking thousand views, but going on strong nevertheless. If devices getting a second life is what keeps you going, check out a near-hundred articles we have filed away under ‘restoration’.

It’s a sad fact of owning older machinery, that no matter how much care is lavished upon your pride and joy, the inexorable march of time takes its toll upon some of the parts. [Jason Scatena] knows this only too well, he’s got a 1976 Honda CJ360 twin, and the rubber bushes that secure its side panels are perished. New ones are hard to come by at a sensible price, so he set about casting his own in silicone.

Naturally this story is of particular interest to owners of old motorcycles, but the techniques should be worth a read to anyone, as we see how he refined his 3D printed mold design and then how he used mica powder to give the clear silicone its black colour. The final buses certainly look the part especially when fitted to the bike frame, and we hope they’ll keep those Honda side panels in place for decades to come. Where this is being written there’s a CB400F in storage, for which we’ll have to remember this project when it’s time to reactivate it.

If fettling old bikes is your thing then we hope you’re in good company here, however we’re unsure that many of you will have restored the parts bin for an entire marque.