[Luca Dentella] recently encountered a toy, which was programmed to read different stories aloud based on the figurine placed on top. It inspired him to build an audio device using the same concept, only with music instead of children’s stories.

The NFC Music Player very much does what it says on the tin. Present it with an NFC card, and it will play the relevant music in turn. An ESP32 WROOM-32E lives at the heart of the build, which is hooked up over I2S with a MAX98357A Class D amplifier for audio output. There’s also an SD card slot for storing all the necessary MP3s, and a PN532 NFC reader for reading the flash cards that activate the various songs. Everything is laced up inside a simple 3D-printed enclosure with a 3-watt full range speaker pumping out the tunes.

It’s an easy build, and a fun one at that—there’s something satisfying about tossing a flash card at a box to trigger a song. Files are on Github for the curious. We’ve featured similar projects before, like the Yaydio—a fun NFC music player for kids. Video after the break.

Those who indulge in trading card games know that building the best deck is the key to victory. What exactly that entails is a mystery to us muggles, but keeping track of your cards is a vital part of the process, one that this DIY card scanner (original German; English translation) seeks to automate.

At its heart, [Fraens]’ card scanner is all about paper handling, which is always an engineering task fraught with peril. Cards like those for Magic: The Gathering and other TCGs are meant to be handled by human hands, and automating the task of flipping through them presents some challenges. [Fraens] uses a pair of motorized 3D-printed rollers with O-rings to form a conveyor belt that can pull one card at a time off the bottom of a deck. An adjustable retaining roller made from the most adorable linear bearing we’ve ever seen ensures that only one card at a time is pulled from the hopper onto an imaging platen. An adjustable mount holds a smartphone to take a picture of the card, which is fed into an app that extracts all the details and categorizes the cards in the deck.

Aside from the card handling mechanism, there are some pretty slick details to this build. The first is that [Fraens] noticed that the glossy finish on some cards interfered with scanning, leading him to add a diffused LED ringlight to the rig. If an image isn’t scannable, the light goes through a process of dimming and switching colors until a good scan is achieved. Also, to avoid the need to modify the existing TCG deck management app, [Fraens] added a microphone to the control side of the scanner that listens for the sounds the app makes when it scans cards. And if Magic isn’t your thing, the basic mechanism could easily be modified to scan everything from business cards to old family photos.

USB Power Delivery is widely considered to be a good thing. It’s become relatively standard, and is a popular way for makers to easily power their projects at a number of specific, useful voltages. However, what you may not know is that it’s possible to get much more variable voltages out of some USB chargers out there. As [GreatScott!] explains, you’ll want to meet USB-C PPS.

PPS stands for Programmable Power Supply. It’s a method by which a USB-C device can request variable voltage and current delivery on demand. Unlike the Power Delivery standard, you’re not limited to set voltages at tiers of 5V, 9V, 15V and 20V. You can have your device request the exact voltage it wants, right from the charger.  Commercially, it’s most typically used to allow smartphones to charge as fast as possible by getting the optimum voltage to plumb into the battery. However, with the right techniques, you can use PPS to get a charger to output whatever voltage you want, from 3.3 V to 21 V, for your own nefarious purposes. You can choose a voltage in 20 mV increments, and even set a current limit in 50 mA increments. Don’t go mad with power, now.

However, there’s a hitch. Unlike USB PD, there isn’t yet a whole ecosystem of $2 PPS breakout boards ready to gloop into your own little projects. As [GreatScott!] suggests, if you want to use PPS, you might want to take a look at the AP33772S IC. It’s a USB PD3.1 Sink Controller. You can command it over I2C to ask for the voltage and current you want. If that’s too hard, though, [CentyLab] has a solution on Tindie to get you going faster. It’s also got some exciting additional functionality—like USB-C AVS support. It offers higher voltage and more power, albeit with less resolution, but chargers with this functionality are quite obscure at this stage.

We’ve actually touched on PPS capability before in our exploration of the magic that is USB-C Power Delivery. Video after the break.

[Thanks to Keith Olson for the tip!]

If you ever wished electrons would just behave, this one’s for you. A team from Tohoku, Osaka, and Manchester Universities has cracked open an interesting phenomenon in the chiral helimagnet α-EuP₃: they’ve induced one-way electron flow without bringing diodes into play. Their findings are published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.

The twist in this is quite literal. By coaxing europium atoms into a chiral magnetic spiral, the researchers found they could generate rectification: current that prefers one direction over another. Think of it as adding a one-way street in your circuit, but based on magnetic chirality rather than semiconductors. When the material flips to an achiral (ferromagnetic) state, the one-way effect vanishes. No asymmetry, no preferential flow. They’ve essentially toggled the electron highway signs with an external magnetic field. This elegant control over band asymmetry might lead to low-power, high-speed data storage based on magnetic chirality.

If you are curious how all this ties back to quantum theory, you can trace the roots of chiral electron flow back to the early days of quantum electrodynamics – when physicists first started untangling how particles and fields really interact.

There’s a whole world of weird physics waiting for us. In the field of chemistry, chirality has been covered by Hackaday, foreshadowing the lesser favorable ways of use. Read up on the article and share with us what you think.

If you’re the sort who finds beauty in symmetry – and I’m not talking about your latest PCB layout – then you’ll appreciate this clever take on the long-tailed pair. [Kevin]’s video on this topic explores boosting common mode rejection by swapping out the old-school tail resistor for a current mirror. Yes, the humble current mirror – long underestimated in DIY analog circles – steps up here, giving his differential amplifier a much-needed backbone.

So why does this matter? Well, in Kevin’s bench tests, this hack more than doubles the common mode rejection, leaping from a decent 35 dB to a noise-crushing 93 dB. That’s not just tweaking for tweaking’s sake; that’s taking a breadboard standard and making it ready for sensitive, low-level signal work. Instead of wrestling with mismatched transistors or praying to the gods of temperature stability, he opts for a practical approach. A couple of matched NPNs, a pair of emitter resistors, and a back-of-the-envelope resistor calculation – and boom, clean differential gain without the common mode muck.

If you want the nitty-gritty details, schematics of the demo circuits are on his project GitHub. Kevin’s explanation is equal parts history lesson and practical engineering, and it’s worth the watch. Keep tinkering, and do share your thoughts on this.

Have you seen Severance? Chances are good that you have; the TV series has become wildly popular in its second season, to the point where the fandom’s dedication is difficult to distinguish from the in-universe cult of [Kier]. Part of the show’s appeal comes from its overall aesthetic, which is captured in this description of the building of one of the show’s props.

A detailed recap of the show is impossible, but for the uninitiated, a mega-corporation called Lumon has developed a chip that certain workers have implanted in their brains to sever their personalities and memories into work and non-work halves. The working “Innies” have no memory of what their “Outies” do when they aren’t at work, which sounds a lot better than it actually ends up being. It’s as weird as it sounds, and then some.

The prop featured here is the “WoeMeter” from episode seven of season two, used to quantify the amount of woe in a severed worker — told you it was weird. The prop was built by design house [make3] on a short timeline and after seeing only some sketches and rough renders from the production designers, and had to echo the not-quite-midcentury modern look of the whole series. The builders took inspiration from, among other things, a classic Nagra tape recorder, going so far as to harvest its knobs and switches to use in the build. The controls are all functional and laid out in a sensible way, allowing the actors to use the device in a convincing way. For visual feedback, the prop has two servo-operated meters and a string of seven-segment LED displays, all controlled by an ESP-32 mounted to a custom PCB. Adding the Lumon logo to the silkscreen was a nice touch.

The prop maker’s art is fascinating, and the ability to let your imagination run wild while making something that looks good and works for the production has got to be a blast. [make3] really nailed it with this one.

Thanks to [Aaron’s Outie] for the tip.

SD cards & the much smaller microSD cards are found on many devices, with the card often accessible from outside the enclosure. Unfortunately there’s a solid chance that especially small microSD cards will find their way past the microSD card reader slot and into the enclosure. This is what happened to [Rob] of the SevenFortyOne Radios and Repairs channel on YouTube with a NanoVNA unit. While shaking the unit, you can clearly hear the microSD card rattling inside, courtesy of the rather large gap above the card slot.

After a quick teardown and extracting the lost microSD card, the solution to prevent this is a simple bit of foam stuck on top of the microSD card slot, so that the too large opening in the enclosure is now fully blocked. It’s clearly a bit of a design fail in this particular NanoVNA unit, worsened by the tiny size of the card and having to use a fingernail to push the card into the slot as it’s so far inside the enclosure.

While [Rob] seems to blame himself for this event, we’d chalk it mostly up to poor design. It’s an issue that’s seen with certain SBC enclosures and various gadgets too, where losing a microSD card is pretty much a matter of time, and hugely fiddly at the best of times. That said, what is your preferred way of handling microSD card insertion & removal in devices like these?

[Hope This Works] wants to someday build a tiny factory line in the garage, with the intent of producing some simple widget down the line. But what is a tiny factory without tiny conveyor belts? Not a very productive one, that’s for sure.

As you may have noticed, this is designed after the transporter belts from the game Factorio. [Hope This Works] ultimately wants something functional that’s small enough to fit in one hand and has that transporter belt aesthetic going. He also saw this as a way to level up his CAD skills from approximately 1, and as you’ll see in the comprehensive video after the break, that definitely happened.

And so [Hope This Works] started by designing the all-important sprockets. He found a little eight-toothed number on McMaster-Carr and used the drawing for reference. From there, he designed the rest of the parts around the sprockets, adding a base so that it can sit on the desk or be held in the hand.

For now, this proof-of-concept is hand-cranked. We especially love that [Hope This Works] included a square hole for the crank handle to stand in when not in use. Be sure to check out the design/build video after the break to see it in action.

How happy would you be to see Factorio come up in a job interview?

Thanks for the tip, [foamyguy]!

For the maker looking to turn their project into a business, trying to price your widget can be a bit of a conundrum. You want to share your widget with the world without going broke in the process. What if you could achieve both, letting the end user finish assembly? [PDF]

While over a decade has passed since Harvard Business School released this study on what they dub “The IKEA Effect,” we suspect that most of it will still be relevant given the slow pace of human behavior change. In short, when you make someone become part of the process of manufacturing or assembling their stuff, it makes them value it more highly than if it was already all put together in the box.

Interestingly, the researchers found “that consumers believe that their self-made products rival those of experts,” and that this is true regardless of whether these people consider themselves to be DIY enthusiasts or not. This only holds if the person is successful though, so it’s critical to have good instructions. If you have a mass market item in the works, you probably don’t want to require someone with no experience to solder something, but as IKEA has shown, nearly anybody can handle some hex screws and Allen wrenches.

If you’re looking for more advice on how to get your invention in people’s hands, how about this Supercon talk by Carrie Sundra about manufacturing on a shoestring budget or this video from Simone Giertz on her experiences with manufacturing from idea to finished product. You might want to steer clear of people promising patents for pennies on commercials, though.

Typically, if you’re shooting 35 mm film, you’re using it in an old point-and-shoot or maybe a nice SLR. You might even make some sizeable prints if you take a particularly good shot. But you can get altogether weirder with 35 mm if you like, as [Socialmocracy] demonstrates with his “extreme sprocket hole photography” project (via Petapixel).

The concept is simple enough. [Socialmocracy] wanted to expose four entire rolls of 35 mm film all at the same time in one single shot. To be absolutely clear, we’re not talking about exposing a frame on each of four rolls at once. We’re talking about a single exposure covering the entire length of all four films, stacked one on top of the other.

To achieve this, an old-school Cirkut No.6 Outfit camera was pressed into service. It’s a large format camera, originally intended for shooting panoramas. As the camera rotated around under the drive of a clockwork motor, it would spool out more film to capture an image.

[Socialmocracy] outfitted the 100-year-old camera with a custom 3D-printed spool that could handle four rolls of film at once, rather than its usual wide single sheet of large format film. This let the camera shoot its characteristic panoramas, albeit spread out over multiple rolls of film, covering the sprocket holes and all. Hence the name—”extreme sprocket hole photography.”

It’s a neat build, and one that lets [Socialmocracy] use more readily available film to shoot fun panoramas with this old rig. We’ve featured some other great film camera hacks over the years, too, like this self-pack Polaroid-style film. Video after the break.

[Thanks to naMretupmoC for the tip!]

Big-name tube amplifiers often don’t come cheap. Being the preserve of dedicated audiophiles, those delicate hi-fis put their glass components on show to tell you just how pricy they really ought to be. If you just want to dip your toe in the tube world, though, there’s a cheaper and more accessible way to get started. [Jenny List] shows us the way with her neat headphone amp build.

The build starts with an off-the-shelf preamp kit based around two common 6J1 tubes. These Chinese pentode valves come cheap and you can usually get yours hands on this kit for $10 or so. You can use the kit as-is if you just want a pre-amp, but it’s not suitable for headphone use out of the box due to its high-impedance output. That’s where [Jenny] steps in.

You can turn these kits into a pleasing headphone amp with the addition of a few choice components. As per the schematic on Github, a cheap transformer and a handful of passives will get it in the “good enough” range to work. The transformer isn’t perfect, and bass response is a compromise, but it’s a place to start your tinkering journey. Future work from [Jenny] will demonstrate using a MOSFET follower to achieve much the same result.

We’ve seen a great number of headphone amplifiers over the years, including one particularly attractive resin-encased example. Video after the break.

There are many ways to hack the world. Graduate students at Parsons The New School for Design developed a guide for hacking the biggest piece of technology humans have developed – the city.

One of the things we love here at Hackaday is how hacking gives us a tool to make the world a better place for ourselves and those around us. Even if it’s a simple Arduino-based project, we’re (usually) trying to make something better or less painful.

Taking that same approach of identifying a problem, talking to the end user, and then going through design and execution can also apply to projects at a larger scale. Even if you live in an already great neighborhood, there’s likely some abandoned nook or epic vista that could use some love to bring people out from behind their screens to enjoy each other’s company. This guide walks us through the steps of improving public space, and some of the various ways to interact with and collate data from the people and organizations that makeup a community. This could work as a framework for growing any nascent hacker or makerspaces as well.

Hacking your neighborhood can include anything: a roving playground, a light up seesaw, or a recycling game. If you’ve seen any cool projects in this regard, send them to the tipsline!

Split flap displays! They’re mechanical, clickety-clackity, and largely commercially irrelevant in our screen-obsessed age. That doesn’t mean you can’t have a ball making one of your own, though! [Morgan Manly] did just that, with tidy results.

An ESP32 C3 SuperMini serves as the boss of the operation, running the whole display. The display is designed to be modular, so you can daisy chain multiple characters together to spell longer words. Each module has 37 characters, so it can display the alphabet, numerals 0 to 9, and a blank. Each module contains a 28BYJ-48 stepper motor for controlling the flaps, and a ULN2003 driver board to run it and a PCF8575 IO expander to handle communciation. An A3144 hall effect sensor is also used for positional feedback to ensure the display always shows the right character. The flap mechanism itself is relatively straightforward—a drum with all 37 flaps is until the correct character is reached, with the blank flaps hosting a magnet to trigger the aforementioned hall effect sensor. The flaps themselves are 3D-printed, with filament changes used to color the characters against the background.

If you’ve ever dreamed of building a flap-display clock or ticker, you needn’t dream of finding the perfect vintage example. You can just build your own! The added bonus is that you can make it as big or as small as you like. We’ve seen some interesting variations on the split flap concept recently, too. If you’re cooking up your own kooky electromechanical displays, don’t hesitate to let us know!

To the extent that you’re familiar with magnetostriction, you probably know that it’s what makes big transformers hum, or that it’s what tips you off if you happen to walk out of a store without paying for something. But magnetostriction has other uses, too, such as in this clever linear position sensor.

Magnetostriction is just the tendency for magnetic materials to change size or shape slightly while undergoing magnetization, thanks to the tiny magnetic domains shifting within the material while they’re aligning. [Florian B.]’s sensor uses a side effect of magnetostriction known as the Wiedenmann effect, which causes a wire to experience a twisting force if a current pulse is applied to it in a magnetic field. When the current pulse is turned off, a mechanical wave travels along the wire to a coil, creating a signal. The difference in time between sending the pulse and receiving the reflection can be used to calculate the position of the magnet along the wire.

To turn that principle into a practical linear sensor, [Florian B.] used nickel wire stretched tightly down the middle of a PVC tube. At one end is a coil of copper magnet wire, while the other end has a damper to prevent reflections. Around the tube is a ring-shaped cursor magnet, which can move up and down the tube. An exciter circuit applies the current pulse to the wire, and an oscilloscope is used to receive the signal from the wire.

This project still appears to be in the prototype phase, as evidenced by the Fischertechnik test rig. [Florian] has been working on the exciter circuit most recently, but he’s done quite a bit of work on optimizing the cursor magnet and the coil configuration, as well as designs for the signal amplifier. It’s a pretty neat project, and we’re looking forward to updates.

If you need a deeper dive into magnetostriction, [Ben Krasnow] points the way.

Anyone who has ever had the misfortune of a blown head gasket knows that the old saying “oil and water don’t mix” is only partially true. When what’s coming out of the drain plug looks like a mocha latte, you know you’re about to have a very bad day.

[SpankRanch Garage] recently found himself in such a situation, and the result was this clever vacuum dehydrator, which he used to clean a huge amount of contaminated hydraulic fluid from some heavy equipment. The machine is made from a retired gas cylinder welded to a steel frame with the neck pointing down. He added a fill port to the bottom (now top) of the tank; as an aside, we had no idea the steel on those tanks was so thick. The side of the tank was drilled and threaded for things like pressure and temperature gauges as well as sight glasses to monitor the process and most importantly, a fitting for a vacuum pump. Some valves and a filter were added to the outlet, and a band heater was wrapped around the tank.

To process the contaminated oil, [Spank] glugged a bucket of forbidden milkshake into the chamber and pulled a vacuum. The low pressure lets the relatively gentle heat boil off the water without cooking the oil too badly. It took him a couple of hours to treat a 10-gallon batch, but the results were pretty stark. The treated oil looked far better than the starting material, and while it still may have some water in it, it’s probably just fine for excavator use now. The downside is that the vacuum pump oil gets contaminated with water vapor, but that’s far easier and cheaper to replace that a couple hundred gallons of hydraulic oil.

Never doubt the hacking abilities of farmers. Getting things done with what’s on hand is a big part of farm life, be it building a mower from scrap or tapping the power of the wind.

You can use all kinds of numbers and rating systems to determine whether the air quality in a given room is good, bad, or somewhere in between. Or, like [Makestreme], you could go for a more human visual interface. He’s built a air quality monitor that conveys its information via facial expressions on a small screen.

Named Gus, the monitor is based around a Xiao ESP32-C3. It’s hooked up with the SeeedStudio Grove air quality sensor, which can pick up everything from carbon monoxide to a range of vaguely toxic and volatile gases. There’s also a THT22 sensor for measuring temperature and humidity. It’s all wrapped up in a cute 3D-printed robot housing that [Makestreme] created in Fusion 360. A small OLED display serves as Gus’s face.

The indications of poor air quality are simple and intuitive. As “Gus” detects poor air, his eyelids droop and he begins to look more gloomy. Of course, that doesn’t necessarily tell you what you should do to fix the air quality. If your issue is pollution from outside, you’ll probably want to shut windows or turn on an air purifier. On the other hand, if your issue is excess CO2, you’ll want to open a window and let fresh air in. It’s a limitation of this project that it can’t really detect particulates or CO2, but instead is limited to CO and volatiles instead. Still, it’s something that could be worked around with richer sensors a more expressive face. Some will simply prefer hard numbers, though, whatever the case. To that end, you can tap Gus’s head to get more direct information from what the sensors are seeing.

We’ve seen some other great air quality projects before, too, with remarkably similar ideas behind them. Video after the break.

[Thanks to Willem de Vries for the tip!]

You know the problem. You are ready to melt some metal in your microwave oven, and you don’t have any crucibles. Not to worry. [Shake the Future] will show you how to make your own. All you need is some silicon carbide, some water glass (sodium silicate), and some patience.

The crucible takes the shape of a glass container. Don’t get too attached to it because the glass will break during the crucible construction. You can also use 3D-printed forms.

You can shape the vessel before it cures and after. Then, you give it a heat treatment. [Shake The Future] also recommends you harden it at the end. This is optional; he tells you how to decide if you need it.

Hardening helps prevent cracking during use. The process involves wrapping the vessel in a ceramic sheet and heating it until the crucible turns red. The ceramic sheet is somewhat dangerous to work with because it has such tiny fibers and dust, so he only treats the crucibles when necessary.

We always enjoy watching [Shake] casting metal. He’s even done a Benchy.