A spectrometer is one of those tools that many of us would love to have, but just can’t justify the price of. Sure there are some DIY options out there, but few of them have the convenience or capability of what’s on the commercial market. [Chris] from Zoid Technology recently found a portable spectrometer complete with Android application for just $150 USD on AliExpress which looked very promising…at least at first.

The problem is that the manufacturer, Torch Bearer, offers more expensive models of this spectrometer. In an effort to push users into those higher-priced models, arbitrary features such as data export are blocked in the software. [Chris] first thought he could get around this by reverse engineering the serial data coming from the device (interestingly, the spectrometer ships with a USB-to-serial adapter), but while he got some promising early results, he found that the actual spectrometer data was obfuscated — a graph of the results looked like stacks of LEGOs.

His next step was to decompile the Android application and manually edit out the model number checks. This let him enable the blocked features, although to be fair, he did find that some of them actually did require additional hardware capabilities that this cheaper model apparently doesn’t posses. He was able to fix up a few other wonky issues in the application that are described in the video below, and has released a patch that you can use to bring your own copy of the software up to snuff.

But that’s not all — while fiddling around inside the Android tool’s source code, he found the missing pieces he needed to understand how the serial data was being obfuscated. The explanation to how it works is pretty long-winded, so we’ll save time and just say that the end result was the creation of a Python library that lets you pull data from the spectrometer without relying on any of the manufacturer’s software. This is the kind of thing a lot of people have been waiting for, so we’re eager to see what kind of response the GPLv3 licensed tool gets from the community.

If you’d still rather piece together your own spectrometer, we’ve seen some pretty solid examples you can use to get started.

As everyone knows, no matter how many drill bits one owns, one inevitably needs a size that isn’t on hand. Well, if you ever find yourself needing to drill a hole that’s precisely 13 mm, here’s a trick from [AvE] to keep in mind for doing it with a 1/2″ bit. It’s a hack that only works in certain circumstances, but hey, it just may come in handy some day.

So the first step in making a 13 mm hole is to drill a hole with a 1/2″ bit. That’s easy enough. Once that’s done, fold a few layers of tinfoil over into a small square and lay it over the hole. Then put the drill bit onto the foil, denting it into the hole (but not puncturing it) with the tip, and drill at a slow speed until the foil wraps itself around the bit like a sheath and works itself into the hole. The foil enlarges the drill bit slightly and — as long as the material being drilled cooperates — resizes the hole a tiny bit bigger in the process. The basic idea can work with just about any drill bit.

It’s much easier demonstrated than described, so watch it in action in the video around the 2:40 mark which will make it all very clear.

It’s not the most elegant nor the most accurate method (the hole in the video actually ends up closer to 13.4 mm) but it’s still something worth keeping in the mental toolbox. Just file it away along with laying your 3D printer on its side to deal with tricky overhangs.

Toaster oven reflow projects are such a done deal that there should be nothing new in one here in 2025. Take a toaster oven, an Arduino, and a thermocouple, and bake those boards! But [Paul J R] has found a new take on an old project, and better still, he’s found the most diminutive of toaster ovens from the Australian version of Kmart. We love the project for the tiny oven alone.

The brains of the operation is an ESP32, in the form of either a TTGO TTDisplay board or an S3-Zero board on a custom carrier PCB, with a thermistor rather than a thermocouple for the temperature sensing, and a solid state relay to control mains power for the heater. All the resources are in a GitHub repository, but you may have to make do with a more conventionally-sized table top toaster oven if you’re not an Aussie.

If you’re interested, but want a better controller board, we’ve got you covered.

If you think of a metal detector, you’re probably thinking of a fairly simple device with a big coil and a piercing whine coming from a tinny speaker. [mircemk] has built a more modern adaptation. It’s a metal detector you can use with your smartphone instead.

The metal detector part of the project is fairly straightforward as far as these things go. It uses the pulse induction technique, where short pulses are fired through a coil to generate a magnetic field. Once the pulse ends, the coil is used to detect the decaying field as it spreads out. The field normally fades away in a set period of time. However, if there is metal in the vicinity, the time to decay changes, and by measuring this, it’s possible to detect the presence of metal.

In this build, an ESP32 is in charge of the show, generating the necessary pulses and detecting the resulting field. It’s paired with the usual support circuitry—an op-amp and a few transistors to drive the coil appropriately, and the usual smattering of passives. The ESP32 then picks up the signal from the coil and processes it, passing the results to a smartphone via Bluetooth.

The build is actually based on a design by [Neco Desarrollo], who presents more background and other variants for the curious. We’ve featured plenty of [mircemk]’s projects before, like this neat proximity sensor build.

There’s many different reasons why somebody might have to hack together their own solution to a problem. It could be to save money, or to save time. Occasionally it’s because the problem is unique enough that there might not be an accepted solution, so you’re on your own to create one. We think the situation that [Raph] recently found himself in was a combination of several of these aspects, which makes his success all the sweeter.

The problem? [Raph] had a pair of foam mattresses from his camper van that needed to be made thinner — each of the three inch (7.62 cm) pieces of foam needed to have one inch (2.5 cm) shaved off as neatly and evenly as possible. Trying to pull that off over the length of a mattress with any kind of manual tools was obviously a no-go, so he built a low-rider foam cutter.

With the mattresses laying on the ground, the idea was to have the cutter simply roll across them. The cutter uses a 45″ (115 cm) long 14 AWG nichrome wire that’s held in tension with a tension arm and bungee cords, which is juiced up with a Volteq HY2050EX 50 V 20 A variable DC power supply. [Raph] determined the current experimentally: the wire failed at 20 A, and cutting speed was too low at 12 A. In the end, 15 A seemed to be the sweet spot.

The actual cutting process was quite slow, with [Raph] finding that the best he could do was about 1/8″ (3 mm) per second on the wider of the two mattresses. While the result was a nice flat cut, he does note that at some point the mattresses started to blister, especially when the current was turned up high. We imagine this won’t be a big deal for a mattress though, as you can simply put that side on the bottom.

In the end, the real problem was the smell. As [Raph] later discovered, polyurethane foam is usually cut mechanically, as cutting it with a hot wire gives off nasty fumes. Luckily he had plenty of ventilation when he was making his cuts, but he notes that the mattresses themselves still have a stink to them a couple days later. Hopefully they’ll finish outgassing before his next camping trip.

As you can imagine, we’ve covered a great number of DIY foam cutters over the years, ranging from the very simple to computerized marvels. But even so, there’s something about the project-specific nature of this cutter that we find charming.

[Mikey Sklar] had a problem—namely, running low on the brass material typically used for making PCB stencils. Thankfully, a replacement material was not hard to find. It turns out you can use aluminum business card blanks to make viable PCB stencils.

Why business card blanks? They’re cheap, for a start—maybe 15 cents each in quantity. They’re also the right thickness, at just 0.8 mm, and they’re flat, unlike rolled materials that can tend to flip up when you’re trying to spread paste. They’re only good for small PCBs, of course, but for many applications, they’ll do just fine.

To cut these, you’ll probably want a laser cutter. [Mikey] was duly equipped in that regard already, which helped. Using a 20 watt fiber laser at a power of 80%, he was able to get nice accurate cuts for the stencils. Thanks to the small size of the PCBs in question, the stencils for three PCBs could be crammed on to a single card.

If you’re not happy with your existing PCB stencil material, you might like to try these aluminium blanks on for size. We’ve covered other stenciling topics before, too.

One of those useful things to have around on your bench is a decade resistance box, essentially a dial-a-resistance instrument. They used to be quite expensive in line with the cost of close-tolerance resistors, but the prices have come down and it’s within reach to build your own. Electronic design consultancy Dekimo have a nice design for one made from a series of PCBs which they normally give out at trade fairs, but now they’ve released the files for download.

It’s released as Gerbers and BOM with a pick-and-place file only, and there’s no licence so it’s free-as-in-beer, but that should be enough if you fancy a go. Our Gerber viewer is playing up so we’re not entirely sure how reliable using PCBs as wafer switches will be long-term, but since the pictures are all ENIG boards we’d guess the gold plating will be much better than the HASL on all those cheap multimeters.

We like this as a conference giveaway, being used to badges it’s refreshing to see a passive take on a PCB artwork. Meanwhile this isn’t the first resistance box we’ve seen with unconventional switches.

While the Bus Pirate 5 is an impressive piece of hardware, the software is arguably where the project really shines. Creator [Ian Lesnet] and several members of the community are constantly working to add new features and capabilities to the hardware hacking multi-tool, to the point that if your firmware is more than a few days old there’s an excellent chance there’s a fresher build available for you to try out.

One of the biggest additions from the last week or so of development has been the I2C sniffer — a valuable tool for troubleshooting or reverse engineering devices using the popular communications protocol. [Ian] has posted a brief demo video of it in action.

It’s actually a capability that was available in the “classic” versions of the Bus Pirate, but rather than porting the feature over from the old firmware, [Ian] decided to fold the MIT licensed pico_i2c_sniffer from [Juan Schiavoni] into the new codebase. Thanks to the RP2040’s PIO, the sniffer works at up to 500 kHz, significantly outperforming its predecessor.

Admittedly, I2C sniffing isn’t anything you couldn’t do with a cheap logic analyzer. But that means dealing with captures and making sure the protocol decoder is setup properly, among other bits of software tedium. In comparison, once you start the sniffer program on the Bus Pirate 5, I2C data will be dumped out to the terminal in real-time for as long as you care to see it. For reverse engineering, it’s also very easy to move quickly from sniffing I2C packets to replaying or modifying them within the Bus Pirate’s interface.

If you already have a Bus Pirate 5, all you need to do is flash the latest firmware from the automated build system, and get sniffing. On the fence about picking one up? Perhaps our hands-on review will help change your mind.

We’re used to low cost parts and a diversity of electronic functions to choose from in our projects, to the extent that our antecedents would be green with envy. Back when tubes were king, electronics was a much more expensive pursuit with new parts, so designers had to be much more clever in their work. [Thomas Scherrer OZ2CPU] has just such a design on his bench, it’s a Heathkit Capaci-Tester designed in 1959, and we love it for the clever tricks it uses.

It’s typical of Heathkits of this era, with a sturdy chassis and components mounted on tag strips. As the name suggests, it’s a capacitor tester, and it uses a magic eye tube as its display. It’s looking for short circuits, open circuits, and low equivalent resistance, and it achieves this by looking at the loading the device under test places on a 19 MHz oscillator. But here comes that economy of parts; there’s no rectifier so the circuit runs on an AC HT voltage from a transformer, and that magic eye tube performs the task of oscillator as well as display.

He finds it to be in good condition in the video below the break, though he removes a capacitor placed from one of the mains input lines to chassis. It runs, and confirms his test capacitor is still good. It can’t measure the capacitance, but we’re guessing the resourceful engineer would also have constructed a bridge for that.

The current generation of USB-powered soldering irons have a lot going for them, chief among them being portability and automatic start and stop. But an iron that turns off in the middle of soldering a joint is a problem, one that this capacitive-touch replacement control module aims to fix.

The iron in question is an SJ1 from Awgem, which [DoganM95] picked up on Ali Express. It seems well-built, with a sturdy aluminum handle, a nice OLED display, and fast heat-up and cool-down. The problem is that the iron is triggered by motion, so if you leave it still for more than a second or two, such as when you’re soldering a big joint, it turns itself off. To fix that,[DoganM95] designed a piggyback board for the OEM controller with a TTP223 capacitive touch sensor. The board is carefully shaped to allow clearance for the existing PCB components and the heater cartridge terminals, and has castellated connections so it can connect to pads on the main board. You have to remove one MOSFET from the main board, but that’s about it for modifications. A nickel strip makes contact with the inside of the iron’s shell, turning it into the sensor plate for the TTP223.

[DoganM95] says that the BA6 variant of the chip is the one you want, as others have a 10-second timeout, which would defeat the purpose of the mod. It’s a very nice bit of design work, and we especially like how the mod board nests so nicely onto the OEM controller. It reminds us a little of those Quansheng handy-talkie all-band mods.

[Pete] had a friend who would powder coat metal parts for him, but when he needed 16 metal parts coated, he decided he needed to develop a way to do it himself. Some research turned up the fluid bed method and he decided to go that route. He 3D printed a holder and you can see how it all turned out in the video below.

A coffee filter holds the powder in place. The powder is “fluidized” by airflow, which, in this case, comes from an aquarium pump. The first few designs didn’t work out well. Eventually, though, he had a successful fluid bed. You preheat the part so the powder will stick and then, as usual, bake the part in an oven to cure the powder. You can expect to spend some time getting everything just right. [Pete] had to divert airflow and adjust the flow rate to get everything to work right.

With conventional powder coating, you usually charge the piece you want to coat, but that’s not necessary here. You could try a few other things as suggested in the video comments: some suggested ditching the coffee filter, while others think agitating the powder would make a difference. Let us know what you find out.

This seems neater than the powder coating guns we’ve seen. Of course, these wheels had a great shape for powder coating, but sometimes it is more challenging.

Perfectly clear ice spheres are nifty but can be a bit tricky to make without an apparatus. [Seth Robinson] crafted a copper ice press to make his own.

Copper is well-known for its thermal conductivity, making it a perfect material for building a press to melt ice into a given shape. Like many projects, a combination of techniques yields the best result, and in this case we get to see 3d printing, sand casting, lost PLA casting, lathe turning, milling, and even some good old-fashioned sanding.

The most tedious part of the process appears to be dip coating of ceramic for the lost PLA mold, but the finished result is certainly worth it. That’s not to say that any of the process looks easy if you are a metal working novice. Taking over a week to slowly build up the layers feels a bit excruciating, especially compared to 3D printing the original plastic piece. If you’re ever feeling discouraged watching someone else’s awesome projects, you might want to stick around to the end when [Robinson] shows us his first ever casting. We’d say his skill has improved immensely over time.

If you’re looking for something else to do with casting copper alloys, be sure to checkout this bronze river table or [Robinson’s] copper levitation sphere.

Thanks to [DjBiohazard] for the tip!

Own a Bus Pirate 5? Now, it can do power glitching, thanks to [Matt Brugman’s] demo and contributions to the stock code. This is also a great demo of Bus Pirate’s capabilities and programmability! All you need is the Bus Pirate and a generic Arduino – load a glitch-vulnerable code example into the Arduino, get yourself a generic FET-based glitching setup, and you too can play.

The Arduino board outputs data over UART, and that’s used as a trigger for the Bus Pirate’s new glitch feature – now mainline, thanks to [Matt]’s pull request. It’s pretty feature-complete, too — all parameters are configurable, it can vary the glitching interval, as one would want, and the code checks for success conditions so that it can retry glitching automatically.

In this demo, it only took six consecutive attempts to successfully glitch the ATMega328P – wouldn’t you know it, the code that got glitched was pulled almost wholesale from an IoT device. Glitching remains an underappreciated vector for reverse-engineering, and there’s really no shortage of hacks it allows you to do – get yourself a FET, a Bus Pirate, or maybe just an ESP8266, and join the glitching-aware hackers club!

Want to know more about the Bus Pirate 5? Check out our hands-on review of the hacker multi-tool from last year.

Adding LEDs to a project used to be enough to make it cool. But these days, you need arrays of addressable multi-color LEDs, and that typically means WS2812B or something similar. The problem is that while it was pretty easy to test garden-variety LEDs, these devices can be a bit harder to troubleshoot. [Gokux] has the answer, as you can see in the video below.

Testing these was especially important to [Gokux] because they usually swipe the modules from other modules or LED strips. The little fixture sends the correct pulses to push the LED through several colors when you hold it down to the pads.

However, what if the LED is blinking but not totally right? How can you tell? Easy, there’s a reference LED that changes colors in sync with the device under test. So, if the LEDs match, you have a winner. If not… well, it’s time to desolder another donor LED.

This is one of those projects that you probably should have thought of, but also probably didn’t. While the tester here uses a Xiao microcontroller, any processor that can drive the LEDs would be easy to use. We’d be tempted to breadboard the tester, but you’d need a way to make contact with the LED. Maybe some foil tape would do the trick. Or pogo pins.

There are many ways to hack the world. Graduate students at Parsons The New School for Design developed a guide for hacking the biggest piece of technology humans have developed – the city.

One of the things we love here at Hackaday is how hacking gives us a tool to make the world a better place for ourselves and those around us. Even if it’s a simple Arduino-based project, we’re (usually) trying to make something better or less painful.

Taking that same approach of identifying a problem, talking to the end user, and then going through design and execution can also apply to projects at a larger scale. Even if you live in an already great neighborhood, there’s likely some abandoned nook or epic vista that could use some love to bring people out from behind their screens to enjoy each other’s company. This guide walks us through the steps of improving public space, and some of the various ways to interact with and collate data from the people and organizations that makeup a community. This could work as a framework for growing any nascent hacker or makerspaces as well.

Hacking your neighborhood can include anything: a roving playground, a light up seesaw, or a recycling game. If you’ve seen any cool projects in this regard, send them to the tipsline!

If somebody asked you to visualize a CNC router, you’d probably think of some type of overhead gantry that moves a cutting tool over a stationary workpiece. It’s a straightforward enough design, but it’s not without some shortcomings. For one thing, the scale of such a machine can quickly become an issue if you want to work on large pieces.

But what if you deleted the traditional motion system, and instead let the cutting tool roam freely? That’s the idea behind the open source Compass Handheld CNC. Looking a bit more like a combat robot than a traditional woodworking tool, the Compass tracks its movement over the workpiece using a Teensy 4.1 microcontroller and four PMW3360 optical flow sensors. With a pair of handles that look like a flight yoke and a display that shows the router’s current position versus where it should be, the user can “drive” the tool to cut or carve the desired design.

Admittedly, the Compass doesn’t pack quite the same punch as a more traditional setup. Rather than a beefy spindle motor or a full-sized consumer router clamped up in the gantry, the Compass uses a Dremel 3000. It’s fine for routing out an engraving and other fine work, but you wouldn’t want to use it for cutting thick stock. To help keep the work area clear and prevent dust and chips from jamming up the works, the 3D printed body for the tool includes a connection for a dust collection system.

If this all seems familiar, you may be remembering a tool we first covered nearly a decade ago — the Shaper Origin. That router, which is still on the market incidentally, utilizes optical tracking and fiducial markers to keep track of its position. We’d be interested in seeing how well the Compass compares over large distances without similar reference points.

“World’s best” is a mighty ambitious claim, regardless of what you’ve built. But from the look of [Marius Hornberger]’s tricked-out miter fence, it seems like a pretty reasonable claim.

For those who have experienced the torture of using the standard miter fence that comes with machine tools like a table saw, band saw, or belt sander, any change is likely to make a big difference in accuracy. Miter fences are intended to position a workpiece at a precise angle relative to the plane of the cutting tool, with particular attention paid to the 90° and 45° settings, which are critical to creating square and true joints.

[Marius] started his build with a runner for the T-slot in his machine tools, slightly undersized for the width of the slot but with adjustment screws that expand plastic washers to take up the slack. An aluminum plate equipped with a 3D printed sector gear is attached to the runner, and a large knob with a small pinion mates to it. The knob has 120 precisely positioned slots in its underside, which thanks to a spring-loaded detent provide positive stops every 0.5°. A vernier scale also allows fine adjustment between positive stops, giving a final resolution of 0.1°.

Aside from the deliciously clicky goodness of the angle adjustment, [Marius] included a lot of thoughtful touches. We particularly like the cam-action lock for the angle setting, which prevents knocking your fine angle adjustment out of whack. We’re also intrigued by the slide lock, which firmly grips the T-slot and keeps the fence fixed in one place on the machine. As for the accuracy of the tool, guest meteorologist and machining stalwart [Stefan Gotteswinter] gave it a thumbs-up.

[Marius] is a veteran tool tweaker, and we’ve featured some of his projects before. We bet this fence will see some use on his much-modified drill press, and many of the parts for this build were made on his homemade CNC router.

Vacuum forming is perhaps one of the less popular tools in the modern maker arsenal, something which surprises us a bit because it offers many possibilities. We’ve created our own vacuum forms on 3D printed moulds for ages, so it’s interesting to see [Pisces Printing ] following the same path. But what you might not realize at first is that the vacuum forming sheets themselves are also 3D printed.

The full video is below the break, and in it he details making a mould from PETG, and in particular designing it for easy release. The part he’s making is a belt guard for a table top lathe, and the PETG sheet he’s forming it from is also 3D printed. He makes the point that it’s by no means perfect, for example he shows us a bit of layer separation, but it seems promising enough for further experimentation.  His vacuum forming setup seems particularly small, which looks as though it makes the job of making a sheet somewhat simpler.

The cost of a vacuum forming sheet of whichever polymer is hardly high, so we can’t see this technique making sense for everyday use. But as we’ve seen in previous experiments, the printed sheets so make it easy to add color and texture to the final product, which obviously adds some value to the technique.

Thanks [Tomas Harvie Mudrunka] for the tip.

Last year, we saw [How To Make Everything’s] take on [DaVinci’s] machine for cutting threads. However, they stopped short of the goal, which was making accurate metal screw threads. After much experimentation, they have a working solution. In fact, they tried several different methods, each with varying degrees of success.

Some of the more unusual methods included heating a bar red hot and twisting it, and casting a screw out of bronze. The last actually worked well with a normal screw as the mold, although presumably, a good wood or wax shape would have resulted in a workable mold, too.

The real goal, though, was to make the DaVinci machine more capable on its own. The machine uses leadscrews and can cut its own leadscrews, so, in theory, if you improve the machine, it can cut better components for itself, which may make it possible to cut even better leadscrews.

The reality was the machine required some significant rework to correctly cut metal threads. But it does, as you can see in the video below. With some additional scaling of gears, they were able to cut a 20 TPI threaded rod that would take an off-the-shelf nut.

If you missed the original post on the machine, you can still go back and read it. Of course, once you have a threaded rod, you are just a few steps away from a tap, too.