There’s plenty of surprises to be had when you become a parent, and one of the first is that it’s suddenly your job to record the frequency of your infant’s various bodily functions in exacting detail. How many times did the little tyke eat, how long did they sleep, and perhaps most critically, how many times did they poop. The pediatrician will expect you to know these things, so you better start keeping notes.
Or, if you’re [Triceratops Labs], you build a physical button panel that will keep tabs on the info for you. At the press of each button, a log entry is made on the connected Raspberry Pi Zero W, which eventually makes its way to a web interface that you can view to see all of Junior’s statistics.
In terms of hardware, this one is quite simple — it’s really just an array of arcade-style push buttons wired directly into the Pi’s GPIO header. Where it shines is in the software. This project could have been just a Python script and a text file, but instead it uses a MariaDB database on the back-end, with Apache and PHP serving up the web page, and a custom Systemd service to tie it all together. In other words, it’s what happens when you let a Linux admin play with a soldering iron.
It probably won’t come as much surprise to find that hackers often come up with elaborate monitoring systems for their newborn children, after all, it’s a great excuse for a new project. This machine learning crib camera comes to mind.
At this point, many of us have gone all-in on USB-C. It’s gotten to the point that when you occasionally run across a gadget that doesn’t support being powered USB-C, the whole experience seems somewhat ridiculous. If 90% of your devices using the same power supply, that last 10% starts feeling very antiquated.
So why should your breadboard be any different? [Axiometa] has recently unveiled a simple PCB that will plug into a standard solderless breadboard to provide 3.3 and 5 VDC when connected to a USB-C power supply. The device is going to start a crowdfunding campaign soon if you want to buy a completed one — but with the design files and Bill of Materials already up on GitHub, nothing stops you from spinning up your own version today.
What we like about this design is how simple it is. Getting the 5 V is easy, it just takes the proper resistors on the connector’s CC line. From there, a TPS63001 and a handful of passives provide a regulated 3.3 V. As you can see in the video, all you need to do when you want to change the output voltage for either rail is slide a jumper over.
Sure, it wouldn’t be much harder to add support the other voltages offered by USB-C Power Delivery, but how often have you really needed 20 volts on a breadboard? Why add extra components and complication for a feature most people would never use?
As an aside, we were very interested to see the torture test of the SMD pin headers at the end of the video. There’s considerable debate in the world of badge Simple-Add Ons (SAOs) about whether or not surface mount headers are strong enough to hold up to real-world abuse, and apparently similar concerns were raised about their usage here. But judging by the twisting and wrenching the pins withstood in the video, those fears would appear unwarranted.
Flying a first-person view (FPV) remote controlled aircraft with goggles is an immersive experience that makes you feel as if you’re really sitting in the cockpit of the plane or quadcopter. Unfortunately, while your wearing the goggles, you’re also completely blind to the world around you. That’s why you’re supposed to have a spotter nearby to keep watch on the local meatspace while you’re looping through the air.
But what if you could have the best of both worlds? What if your goggles not only allowed you to see the video stream from your craft’s FPV camera, but you could also see the world around you. That’s precisely the idea behind mixed reality goggles such as Apple Vision Pro and Meta’s Quest, you just need to put all the pieces together. In a recent video [Hoarder Sam] shows you exactly how to pull it off, and we have to say, the results look quite compelling.
[Sam]’s approach relies on the fact that there’s already cheap analog FPV receivers out there that act as a standard USB video device, with the idea being that they let you use your laptop, smartphone, or tablet as a monitor. But as the Meta Quest 3 is running a fork of Android, these devices are conveniently supported out of the box. The only thing you need to do other than plug them into the headset is head over to the software repository for the goggles and download a video player app.
The FPV receiver can literally be taped to the Meta Quest
With the receiver plugged in and the application running, you’re presented with a virtual display of your FPV feed hovering in front of you that can be moved around and resized. The trick is to get the size and placement of this virtual display down to the point where it doesn’t take up your entire field of vision, allowing you to see the FPV view and the actual aircraft at the same time. Of course, you don’t want to make it too small, or else flying might become difficult.
[Sam] says he didn’t realize just how comfortable this setup would be until he started flying around with it. Obviously being able to see your immediate surroundings is helpful, as it makes it much easier to talk to others and make sure nobody wanders into the flight area. But he says it’s also really nice when bringing your bird in for a landing, as you’ve got multiple viewpoints to work with.
Perhaps the best part of this whole thing is that anyone with a Meta Quest can do this right now. Just buy the appropriate receiver, stick it to your goggles, and go flying. If any readers give this a shot, we’d love to hear how it goes for you in the comments.
While modern gaming systems deliver ever more realistic experiences, there’s still something to be said for the consoles and handhelds of the 80s and 90s. For many, the appeal is nostalgic. Others are attracted to the “lo-fi” graphical and sound design of these games, necessitated by the limited hardware of the time.
That said nobody would claim those old systems were perfect. Which is why a hybrid approach like [Peter Khouly] has been working on with the Pico Pal might be the ultimate solution. This replacement motherboard for the Game Boy Color (GBC) is powered by the RP2350, meaning the external hardware will have the same look and feel as it did back in 1998, but you’ll still be able to reap the benefits of modern emulation.
While the origins of the project go a bit farther, [Peter] has been working on this particular variation of the Pico Pal GBC since August, and has kept a fascinating log of his progress. Just getting the RP2350 to emulate Pokémon isn’t really that big of a deal, but getting all the ancillary hardware implemented and fitted inside the case of the GBC is a different story. Especially since [Peter] intends to pack plenty of features into the final product, such as rechargable batteries, Bluetooth audio, real-time clock support, and digital video out.
The most recent status update is from just last week, where [Peter] goes over some of the new features he’s been working on. A major one is the soft power solution, where the physical power switch doesn’t just pull the plug like it did back in the 1990s. Instead, the switch triggers the board to save the game and enter into a low-power mode so that it can come right back on to where you left off. This does impact battery life, but so far, it looks like the Pico Pal GBC will be able to run for at least five hours on a charge, and more than twice that if you don’t mind turning off the audio.
The miniature Christmas village is a tradition in many families — a tiny idyllic world filled happy people, shops, and of course, snow. It’s common to see various miniature buildings for sale around the holidays just for this purpose, and since LEDs are small and cheap, they’ll almost always have some switch on the bottom to light up the windows.
This year, [Braden Sunwold] and his wife started their own village with an eye towards making it a family tradition. But to his surprise, the scale lamp posts they bought to dot along their snowy main street were hollow and didn’t actually light up. Seeing it was up to him to save Christmas, [Braden] got to work adding LEDs to the otherwise inert lamps.
Now in a pinch, this project could have been done with nothing more than some coin cells and a suitably sized LED. But seeing as the lamp posts were clearly designed in the Victorian style, [Braden] felt they should softly flicker to mimic a burning gas flame. Blinking would be way too harsh, and in his own words, look more like a Halloween decoration.
This could have been an excuse to drag out a microcontroller. But instead, [Braden] did as any good little Hackaday reader should do, and called on Old Saint 555 to save Christmas. After doing some research, he determined that a trio of 555s rigged as relaxation oscillators could be used to produce quasi-random triangle waves. When fed into a transistor controlling the LED, the result would be a random flickering instead of a more aggressive strobe effect. It took a little tweaking of values, but eventually he got it locked down and sent away to have custom PCBs made of the circuit.
With the flicker driver done, the rest of the project was pretty simple. Since the lamp posts were already hollow, feeding the LEDs up into them was easy enough. The electronics went into a 3D printed base, and we particularly liked the magnetic connectors [Braden] used so that the lamps could easily be taken off the base when it was time to pack the village away.
If you’re looking to get into flying first-person view (FPV) remote controlled aircraft, there’s an incredible amount of information available online. Seriously, it’s ridiculous. In fact, between the different forums and the countless YouTube videos out there, it can be difficult to sort through the noise and actually find the information you need.
What if there was one location where FPV folks could look up hardware, compare notes, and maybe even meet up for the occasional flight? That’s the idea behind the recently launched DIYFPV. In its current state the website is a cross between a social media platform, a hardware database, and a tech support forum.
Being able to look up parts to see who has them in stock and for what price is certainly handy, and is likely to become a very valuable resource, especially as users start filling the database with first-hand reviews. There’s no shortage of social media platforms where you can post and chat about FPV, but pairing that with a dedicated tech support section has promise. Especially if the solutions it produces start getting scrapped by show up in search engines.
But the part of DIYFPV that has us the most interested is the interactive builder tool. As explained in the announcement video below, once this feature goes live, it will allow users to pick parts from the database and virtually wire them together. Parts are represented by high-quality illustrations that accurately represent connectors and solder pads, so you won’t be left guessing where you’re supposed to connect what. Schematics can be shared with others to help with troubleshooting or if you want to get feedback.
The potential here is immense. Imagine a function to estimate the mass of the currently selected electronics, or a simulation of how much current it will draw during flight. It’s not clear how far DIYFPV plans on taking this feature, but we’re eager to find out.
Generally, the projects featured on Hackaday actually do something. We won’t go as far as to say they are practical creations, but they usually have some kind of function other than to sit there and blink. But what if just sitting still and blinking away randomly is precisely what you want a piece of hardware to do?
That was exactly the goal when [createscifi] set out to dress a Lite Brite up as a futuristic prop. On a technical level, this project is pretty much as simple as it gets. But we appreciated seeing some of the techniques brought to bear on this project, and perhaps more importantly, really like the channel’s overall goal of creating affordable sci-fi props using common components. We don’t plan on filming our own space epic anytime soon…but we like to know the option is there.
A diode laser makes adding surface details easy.
The process starts off with creating some 2D imagery to represent various components on the final “control panel”, such as sliders, knobs, and a logo. These details, plus the big opening for the Lite Brite itself, are then cut out of thin wood using a diode laser.
After gluing the parts together, [createscifi] sprays the whole thing black and then rubs graphite powder into the surface to give it a unique metallic texture. Finally, small discs are glued onto the surface to represent knobs and buttons — a process known as “greebling” in the model and prop making world.
The very last step of the process is to glue the Lite Brite into the back of the console, and set it off randomly blinking. Personally, we’d have liked to have seen some attempt made to cover the Lite Brite. It seems like putting the thing behind a piece of scuffed up acrylic to act as a diffuser would have made for a more mysterious visual, but as [createscifi] points out, he considers the fact that its still recognizably a child’s toy to be something of a visual gag.
For many of us, when we think of creating a custom enclosure, our minds immediately go towards our 3D printer. A bit of time in your CAD program of choice, and in an hour (or several), you’ve got a bespoke plastic box. A hacker’s dream come true.
But extruded plastic is hardly perfect. For one thing, you might want a finished piece that looks a little more attractive on your desk. Which is why we appreciate this quick hack from [Tilma]. When faced with a broken LED light and minimal equipment, he decided to transplant the repaired electronics into a scratch-built wooden frame that not only looks better than the original, but is more functional.
Fitting the LED board into the new wooden frame.
The video starts with a teardown of the original light, which was a flexible affair meant to plug directly into a USB port. [Tilma] found that the reason it failed was because of a broken solder joint, presumably due to repetitive motion. Of course, to find this failure he needed to cut away the rubbery sleeve it was encased in, hence the need for a new home.
After tacking on some longer wires to the driver board, [Tilma] connected an external button that he thought would last longer then the stock membrane affair on the PCB. Once it was confirmed that the light worked with the modified electronics, the rest of the video covers how the wooden components were assembled using hand tools. Compared to the high-tech gadgetry we cover on a daily basis here, there’s something refreshing about seeing a person working with chisels, clamps, and rulers.
We think the final result looks quite nice for as simplistic as it is, and is unquestionably more practical than a weird little light bar that sticks out from your USB port. If you’d like to add a bit of woodworking to your bag of tricks, [Dan Maloney] covered some of the basics for us several years ago.
If you have access to a laser cutter, we sincerely hope you’re aware of boxes.py. As the name implies, it started life as a Python tool for generating parametric boxes that could be assembled from laser-cut material, but has since become an invaluable online resource for all sorts of laser projects. Plus, you can still use it for making boxes.
But even if you’ve been using boxes.py for awhile, you might not know it was actually an entry in the Hackaday Prize back in 2017. Creator [Florian Festi] has kept up with the project’s Hackaday.io page all this time, using it as a sort of development blog, and his recent retrospective on 2024 is a fascinating read for anyone with an eye towards hot photonic action.
In it, he describes a bevy of new designs that have come to the site, many of which have been developed either by or in conjunction with the community. For example, a new tool for generating IKEA-like pegboard is sure to be useful for the better organized among us. The last twelve months also saw the addition of a parametric air filter box, LEGO sorters, storage bins, book holders, bird feeders, and plenty more.
At the end, [Florian] has some interesting thoughts on how the community as a whole has developed over the years. He notes that in the early days, any code or designs proposed by users for inclusion in the project usually needed work before they were ready for prime time. But now that everything is more established, the pull requests he’s getting are so well done that they rival any of the original work he put in.
We’re glad to hear that the community is coming together to make this already fantastic project even better. It sounds like [Florian] is even getting some help to track down and eliminate the remaining Python 2.x code that’s still lingering around.
It’s not something we always think about, but the reality is that many of the affordable electronic components we enjoy today are only available to us because they’re surplus parts intended for commercial applications. The only reason you can pick up something like a temperature sensor for literal pennies is because somebody decided to produce millions of them for inclusion in various consumer doodads, and you just happened to luck out.
The vPlayer, from [Kevin Darrah] is a perfect example. Combining a 1.69 inch touch screen intended for smartwatches with the ESP32-S3, the vPlayer is a programmable network-connected display that can show…well, pretty much anything you want, within reason. As demonstrated in the video below, applications range from showing your computer’s system stats to pulling in live images and videos from the Internet.
With an ESP32 at its heart, you can obviously program the vPlayer to do your bidding just like any other development board based on the chip. But to speed things along, [Kevin] is providing demo code to accomplish several common enough tasks that there’s a good chance he’s already got your use case covered.
Out of the box it will play videos stored on the SD card, though you’ll first have to run them through ffmpeg to get the format right. There’s also code written to have the vPlayer act as a weather display, or pull down data and images from public APIs.
The vPlayer is intended to be powered via the USB-C connection, but the VUSB and 3.3 V pins from the ESP32 are broken out on the back should you want to inject power that way. Just be warned, the documentation notes that doing so while plugged into USB may release the Magic Smoke. [Kevin] has also provided a 3D model of the vPlayer and its stock case, should you want to design your own 3D printed enclosure.
Admittedly, there’s nothing exactly groundbreaking about the vPlayer. You could easily roll your own version with existing modules. But as enjoyable as it can be to come up with your own solutions, there’s something to be said for this sort of polished, turn-key experience.
Over the years, dedicated gamers have created incredible recreations of real (and not so real) locations and structures within the confines of Minecraft. Thanks to their efforts, you can explore everything from New York city to Middle Earth and the U.S.S. Enterprise in 1:1: scale.
But what if you wanted to recreate your own town, and didn’t have the hundreds of hours of spare time necessary to do it by hand? Enter Arnis, an open source project from [Louis Erbkamm] that can pull in geographic data from OpenStreetMap and turn it into a highly detailed Minecraft map with just a few keystrokes.
The tool, written in Rust, can be either run via an interactive graphical interface or on the command line. In either case, you provide Arnis with the latitude and longitude for a bounding box around whatever you want to import into the game. [Louis] warns that the resulting process is fairly computationally heavy, so you should start be experimenting with small areas.
Once generated, the map can be loaded into the Java Edition of Minecraft. This refers to the original build of the game that predates the Microsoft buyout. Once Redmond took over they spearheaded a new version of the game written in C++ which was then ported over to mobile operating systems and game consoles. Long story short, if you want to wander around a Minecraft version of your home town, you’ll have to do it on your desktop computer instead of your Nintendo Switch.
While the tool is usable in its current state, [Louis] has a fairly long list of features that either still need to be implemented or could use some improvements. From the number of pull requests that have been merged in, it looks like any assistance the community can provide to make Arnis as capable as possible is welcome, so feel free to lend a hand if you’ve got that geospatial fever.
In general, military gear is designed to be rugged and reliable. A side effect of this is that the equipment usually has a distinct visual look that many people find appealing. You might not need a laptop that can survive being in a war zone, but plenty of hackers have picked such machines up on the second hand market anyway.
Case in point, the H-250 telephone handset. [Tobias] didn’t actually need a combat-ready phone handset, but loved the way it looked. Technically you can pick these up on eBay for a reasonable price, but then you’ve still got to deal with the weirdo military components inside it. So why not design a look-alike and 3D print it?
[Tobias] came up with a design in OpenSCAD that has a very close resemblance to its military counterpart. Not only has he made the source code for the 3D model available for others who might want to print their own look-alike handset, but the Hackaday.io page also includes a breakdown of the hardware that needs to be added to the printed parts to make it a functional handset.
If you think the H-250 handset looks familiar, it’s probably because it comes standard issue on the TA-1042 field telephone — another very slick looking piece of military gear that we’ve covered previously.
Sometimes, all it takes is looking at an existing piece of tech in a new way to come up with something unique. That’s the whole idea behind FallingWater, a gorgeous Art Deco inspired clock created by [Mark Wilson] — while the vertical LCD might look like some wild custom component, it’s simply a common DM8BA10 display module that’s been rotated 90 degrees.
As demonstrated in the video below, by turning the LCD on its side, [Mark] is able to produce some visually striking animations. At the same time the display is still perfectly capable of showing letters and numbers, albeit in a single column and with noticeably wider characters.
In another application it might look odd, but when combined with the “sunburst” style enclosure, it really comes together. Speaking of the enclosure, [Mark] used OpenSCAD to visualize the five layer stack-up, which was then recreated in Inkscape so it could ultimately be laser-cut from acrylic.
Rounding out the build is a “Leonardo Tiny” ATmega32U4 board, a DS3221 real-time clock (RTC), a couple of pushbuttons, and a light dependent resistor (LDR) used to dim the display when the ambient light level is low. All of the electronics are housed on a small custom PCB, making for a nicely compact package.
This build is as simple as it is stylish, and we wouldn’t be surprised if it inspired more than a few clones. At the time of writing, [Mark] hadn’t published the source code for the ATmega, but he has provided the code to generate the cut files for the enclosure, as well as the Gerber files for the PCB. If you come up with your own version of this retro-futuristic timepiece, let us know.
If you’ve ever worked with adding lithium-ion batteries to one of your projects, you’ve likely spent some quality time with a TP4056. Whether you implemented the circuit yourself, or took the easy way out and picked up one of the dirt cheap modules available online, the battery management IC is simple to work with and gets the job done.
But there’s always room for improvement. In a recent video, [Det] and [Rich] from Learn Electronics Repair go over using a more modern battery management board that’s sold online as the MH-CD42. This board, which is generally based on a clone of the IP5306, seems intended for USB battery banks — but as it so happens, plenty of projects that makers and hardware hackers work on have very similar requirements.
So not only will the MH-CD42 charge your lithium-ion cells when given a nominal USB input voltage (4.5 – 5 VDC), it will also provide essential protections for the battery. That means looking out for short circuits, over-charge, and over-discharge conditions. It can charge at up to 2 A (up from 1 A on the TP4056), and includes a handy LED “battery gauge” on the board. But perhaps best of all for our purposes, it includes the necessary circuitry to boost the output from the battery up to 5 V.
If there’s a downside to this board, it’s that it has an automatic cut-off for when it thinks you’ve finished using it; a feature inherited from its USB battery bank origins. In practice, that means this board might not be the right choice for projects that aren’t drawing more than a hundred milliamps or so.
In this era of cheap turn-key machines, the idea of actually building your own desktop 3D printer might seem odd to some. But if you’re looking for a challenge, and want to end up with a printer that legitimately sets itself apart from what they’re stocking on Amazon these days, then take a look at the Lemontron.
We’ve been keeping tabs on the development of this open source 3D printer for some time now, and just before Christmas, the files finally were released for anyone who wants to try putting one together themselves. There’s currently no formal kit available, but once you’ve printed out all the parts, there’s a very nice bill of materials you can find on the website which will tell you everything you need to complete the assembly — and critically — where you can get it.
The hotend and heated bed come from KB-3D, while the bulk of the rest of the components are sourced from AliExpress with a bit of DigiKey sprinkled in. There’s also a custom PCB you’ll want to pick up from your favorite board house. All told, building the Lemontron should cost you somewhat north of $400 USD. Of course, that assumes your time is free. But since you’re reading this on Hackaday, it’s probably a safe bet that you’ll enjoy your time.
You can check out the video below for an expedited look at assembling the printer. It’s not a step-by-step guide exactly, but it should give you a good idea of what to expect before you commit to building the thing. It also provides a look at the design philosophy behind the Lemontron, which largely eschews custom components and relies on off-the-shelf bits to tie all the printed parts together.
We know, you’ve already got a USB to serial adapter. Probably several of them, in fact. But that doesn’t mean you couldn’t use one more — especially when it’s as as cleverly designed as this one from [Anders Nielsen].
The first thing you notice about this adapter, and the big departure from the ones that are likely littering your parts bin, is that it terminates in a full-size male DSUB9 connector. With the ability to be directly plugged into a RS-232 port, this adapter will certainly catch the eye of retrocomputer enthusiasts. With a clever arrangement of jumpers, you can even reconfigure the RX and TX lines to be straight-through or cross over as needed.
But if you’re working with something that doesn’t have a literal serial port, no worries. All of the lines coming from the CH340G chip are broken out to a header so you can connect it up to whatever device you’re working with via jumpers.
In fact, if you’re really sure you’ll never need that RS232 feature, the PCB is even designed in such a way that you can simply snap it off. Admittedly it might seem a little odd to get a device like this if you didn’t want that capability. But once broken off, it’s not like the components go to waste. [Anders] has designed the board in such a way that if you flip it over and install a right-angle header, you can use the RS232 segment on a breadboard.
But the list of features doesn’t stop there. There’s also a 3.3 V regulator on board that you can use to power external circuits, as well as breakouts for the data lines in the USB-C connector. In keeping with the theme of the device, that part of the PCB can also be snapped off if you want to use it elsewhere.
Most folks probably’ won’t need all the capabilities offered by this particular serial adapter, and that’s fine. We’re still happy that it’s out in the wild and available for the community to use and adapt as an open source project.
If we’ve learned anything over the years, it’s that the only thing hardware hackers love more than a device festooned with buttons is one that’s covered in LEDs — so it’s no surprise that this “Mr Christmas” jukebox caught the eye of [Roberts Retro]. But while the holiday gadget might have been mildly entertaining in its stock configuration, he quickly realized that what it really needed was an ESP32 retrofit. After all, what good are all those buttons and LEDs if you can’t bend them to your will?
For the first half of the video, [Robert] treats us to a detailed teardown of the device, which as you might imagine, is largely hollow inside. This gave him plenty of room to graft in new hardware, which is really the best gift any of us could hope to find under the tree. In addition to the ESP32 development board, the jukebox also received a number of WS2812B addressable RGB LEDs, and a DFPlayer module to handle music playback.
With all the buttons wired up to inputs on the ESP32, [Robert] can reconfigure the jukebox to do pretty much whatever he wants with just changes to the software. In the video, he demonstrates how the buttons can be used to trigger the playback of individual songs stored on the DFPlayer’s SD card, which essentially replicates it’s stock functionality. A few lines of changed code later, those same buttons can be used to control devices via Home Assistant.
Readers may recall when we first covered the $5 Xiaomi LYWSD03MMC temperature and humidity sensor back in 2020. Prolific hacker [Aaron Christophel] wrote a custom firmware for the affordable gadget that was so capable and well implemented that it kicked off a whole new community.
It’s recently been brought to our attention that the Xiaomi thermometer has become so popular that clones have started popping up. Often sold under the Tuya brand, these versions look very similar to Xiaomi’s offering but can be had for as little as $1 each from the usual Chinese importers. Even better, they’ve got their very own open-source custom firmware.
The firmware comes from [pvvx], who also helms the most active fork of [Aaron]’s original firmware for the Xiaomi thermometer. Doing a bit of spot-checking between the repositories, it’s not immediately clear that any meaningful code is shared between the two projects. However, once installed, they offer similar capabilities to the user, such as integration with Home Assistant. Perhaps the most significant difference between the two projects is that, at least for the initial flash, you need to hook the Tuya units up to your computer with a USB serial adapter. Considering that one of the highlights of the Xiaomi custom firmware was its exceptionally easy wireless installation, this is a considerable step backward.
Below is a video from a few months back that [Maker’s Fun Duck] put together, where he takes apart one of these clones and shows the installation process for the custom firmware. Our overall impression is that it’s probably worth the few extra dollars to get the original Xiaomi hardware, although the display on the clone seems much brighter. In any event, we’re always happy to see the community coming up with free and open-source firmware for an otherwise locked-down gadget.
This year, we not only challenged Supercon attendees to come up with their own Simple Add-Ons (SAOs) for the badge, but to push the envelope on how the modular bits of flair work. Historically, most SAOs were little more than artistically arranged LEDs, but we wanted to see what folks could do if they embraced the largely unused I2C capability of the spec.
[Squidgeefish] clearly understood the assignment. This first-time attendee arrived in Pasadena with an SAO that was hard to miss…literally. Looking directly at the shockingly bright 128 RGB LED array packed onto the one-inch diameter PCB was an experience that would stay with you for quite some time (ask us how we know). With the “artistically arranged LEDs” aspect of the nominal SAO handled nicely, the extra work was put into the design so that the CPU could control the LED array via simple I2C commands.
Aligning the LED footprints with an imported image of the array.
Now that the dust has settled after Supercon, [Squidgeefish] took the time to write up the experience of designing and producing this gorgeous specimen for our reading pleasure. It’s a fascinating account that starts with a hat tip towards the work of [Jason Coon], specifically the Fibonacci series of densely-packed RGB art pieces. The goal was to recreate the design of the 128 LED model in SAO form, but without the design files for the original hardware, that meant spending some quality time with KiCad’s image import feature.
He designed the LED array for assembly at a board house for obvious reasons, but hand soldering was the order of the day for the SOIC-8 microcontroller, capacitors, and SAO header on the reverse side. Speaking of the MCU, [Squidgeefish] went though a couple of possible suspects before settling on the STM8S001J3, and all the code necessary to drive the LEDs and communicate with the badge over I2C are available should you consider a similar project.
Now technically, the SAO was done at this point, but in testing it out on the Vectorscope badge from Supercon 2023, a problem appeared. It turns out that whatever yahoos came up with that design pulled the power for the SAO port right off of the batteries instead of utilizing the boost converter built-in to the Pi Pico. The end result is that, you never get a true 3.3 V. Also, the voltage that the SAO does get tends to drop quickly — leading to all sorts of unexpected issues.
To solve the problem, [Squidgeefish] came up with a clever boost converter “backpack” PCB that attaches to the rear of the completed SAO. This board intercepts the connection to the badge, and takes whatever voltage is coming across the line and steps it up to the 5 V that the LEDs are actually designed for.
Of course, the irony is that since the 2024 Supercon badge actually did use the boost circuitry of the Pico to provide a true 3.3 V on the SAO connector, this modification wasn’t strictly necessary. But we still love the idea of an add-on for the add-on.
The entire write-up is a fantastic read, and serves as a perfect example of why creating your own Simple Add-On can be so rewarding…and challenging. From adding contingency hardware to deal with badges that don’t obey the spec to figuring out how to produce low-cost packaging on short notice, the production of a decent number of SAOs for the purposes of distribution is a great way to peek out from your comfort zone.
Conectar
Or, if you’re [Triceratops Labs], you build a physical button panel that will keep tabs on the info for you. At the press of each button, a log entry is made on the connected Raspberry Pi Zero W, which eventually makes its way to a web interface that you can view to see all of Junior’s statistics.
