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It’s no exaggeration to say that the development of cheap rechargeable lithium-ion batteries has changed the world. Enabling everything from smartphones to electric cars, their ability to pack an incredible amount of energy into a lightweight package has been absolutely transformative over the last several decades. But like all technologies, there are downsides to consider — specifically, the need for careful monitoring during charging and discharging.

As hardware hackers, we naturally want to harness this technology for our own purposes. But many are uncomfortable about dealing with these high-powered batteries, especially when they’ve been salvaged or come from some otherwise questionable origin. Which is precisely what the Smart Multipurpose Battery Tester from [Open Green Energy] is hoping to address.

Based on community feedback, this latest version of the tester focuses primarily on the convenient 18650 cell — these are easily sourced from old battery packs, and the first step in reusing them in your own projects is determining how much life they still have left. By charging the battery up to the target voltage and then discharging it down to safe minimum, the tester is able to calculate its capacity.

It can also measure the cell’s internal resistance (IR), which can be a useful metric to compare cell health. Generally speaking, the lower the IR, the better condition the battery is likely to be in. That said, there’s really no magic number you’re looking for — a cell with a high IR could still do useful work in a less demanding application, such as powering a remote sensor.

If you’re not using 18650s, don’t worry. There’s a JST connector on the side of the device where you can connect other types of cells, such as the common “pouch” style batteries.

The open source hardware (OSHW) device is controlled by the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32S3, which has been combined with the LP4060 charger IC and a AP6685 for battery protection. The user interface is implemented on the common 0.96 inch 128X64 OLED, with three buttons for navigation. The documentation and circuit schematics are particularly nice, and even if you’re not looking to build one of these testers yourself, there’s a good chance you could lift the circuit for a particular sub-system for your own purposes.

Of course, testing and charging these cells is only part of the solution. If you want to safely use lithium-ion batteries in your own home-built devices, there’s a few things you’ll need to learn about. Luckily, [Arya Voronova] has been working on a series of posts that covers how hackers can put this incredible technology to work.

Unless you’ve got a shop with a well-stocked hardware bin, it’s a trip to the hardware store when you need a special screw. But [Sanford Prime] has a different approach: he prints his hardware, at least for non-critical applications. Just how much abuse these plastic screws can withstand was an open question, though, until he did a little torque testing to find out.

To run the experiments, [Sanford]’s first stop was Harbor Freight, where he procured their cheapest digital torque adapter. The test fixture was similarly expedient — just a piece of wood with a hole drilled in it and a wrench holding a nut. The screws were FDM printed in PLA, ten in total, each identical in diameter, length, and thread pitch, but with differing wall thicknesses and gyroid infill percentages. Each was threaded into the captive nut and torqued with a 3/8″ ratchet wrench, with indicated torque at fastener failure recorded.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, overall strength was pretty low, amounting to only 11 inch-pounds (1.24 Nm) at the low end. The thicker the walls and the greater the infill percentage, the stronger the screws tended to be. The failures were almost universally in the threaded part of the fastener, with the exception being at the junction between the head and the shank of one screw. Since the screws were all printed vertically with their heads down on the print bed, all the failures were along the plane of printing. This prompted a separate test with a screw printed horizontally, which survived to a relatively whopping 145 in-lb, which is twice what the best of the other test group could manage.

[Sanford Prime] is careful to note that this is a rough experiment, and the results need to be taken with a large pinch of salt. There are plenty of sources of variability, not least of which is the fact that most of the measured torques were below the specified lower calibrated range for the torque tester used. Still, it’s a useful demonstration of the capabilities of 3D-printed threaded fasteners, and their limitations.

Aluminium drinks cans make a great source of thin sheet metal which can be used for all manner of interesting projects, but it’s safe to say that retrieving a sheet of metal from a can is a hazardous process. Cut fingers and jagged edges are never far away, so [Kevin Cheung]’s work in making an easy can cutter is definitely worth a look.

Taking inspiration from a rotary can opener, he uses a pair of circular blades in an adjustable injection moulded plastic frame. If you’ve used a pipe cutter than maybe you are familiar with the technique, as the blade rotates round the can a few times it slowly scores and cuts through the metal. Doing the job at both ends of the can reveals a tube, which cna be then cut with scissors and flattened to make a rectangular metal sheet. Those edges are probably sharp, but nothing like the jagged finger-cutters you’d get doing the same by hand. The full video can be seen below the break, and the files to 3D print the plastic parts of the cutter can be found at the bottom of a page describing the use of cans to make a shingle roof.

Solderless breadboards are a fantastic tool for stirring the creative juices. In a few seconds, you can go from idea to prototype without ever touching the soldering iron. Unfortunately, the downside to this is that projects tend to expand to occupy all the available space on the breadboard, and the bench surrounding the project universally ends up cluttered with power supplies, meters, jumpers, and parts you’ve swapped in and out of the circuit.

In an attempt to tame this runaway mess, [Raph] came up with this neat modular breadboard system. It hearkens back to the all-in-one prototyping systems we greatly coveted when the whole concept of solderless breadboards was new and correspondingly unaffordable. Even today, combination breadboard and power supply systems command a pretty penny, so rolling your own might make good financial sense. [Raph] made his system modular, with 3D-printed frames that lock together using clever dovetail slots. The prototyping area snaps to an instrumentation panel, which includes two different power supplies and a digital volt-amp meter. This helps keep the bench clean since you don’t need to string leads all over the place. The separate bin for organizing jumpers and tidbits that snaps into the frame is a nice touch, too.

Want to roll your own? Not a problem, as [Raph] has thoughtfully made all the build files available. What’s more, they’re parametric so you can customize them to the breadboards you already have. The only suggestion we have would be that making this compatible with [Zack Freedman]’s Gridfinity system might be kind of cool, too.

When we saw [Max.K]’s automatic NiMh battery charger float past in the Hackaday tips line, it brought to mind a charger that might be automatic in the sense that any modern microcontroller based circuit would be; one which handles all the voltages and currents automatically. The reality is far cooler than that, a single-cell charger in which the automatic part comes in taking empty cells one by one from a hopper on its top surface and depositing them charged in a bin at the bottom.

Inside the case is a PCB with an RP2040 that controls the whole shop as well as the charger circuitry. A motorised cam with a battery shaped insert picks up a cell from the bin and moves it into the charger contacts, before dumping it into the bin when charged. What impresses us it how slick this device is, it feels like a product rather than a project, and really delivers on the promise of 3D printing. We’d want one on our bench, and after watching the video below the break, we think you will too.

If you’re used to thinking about 3D printing in Cartesian terms, prepare your brain for a bit of a twist with [Joshua Bird]’s 4-axis 3D printer that’s not quite like anything we’ve ever seen before.

The printer uses a rotary platform as a build plate, and has a linear rail and lead screw just outside the rim of the platform that serves as the Z axis. Where things get really interesting is the assembly that rides on the Z-axis, which [Joshua] calls a “Core R-Theta” mechanism. It’s an apt description, since as in a CoreXY motion system, it uses a pair of stepper motors and a continuous timing belt to achieve two axes of movement. However, rather than two linear axes, the motors can team up to move the whole print arm in and out along the radius of the build platform while also rotating the print head through almost 90 degrees.

The kinematic possibilities with this setup are really interesting. With the print head rotated perpendicular to the bed, it acts like a simple polar printer. But tilting the head allows you to print steep overhangs with no supports. [Joshua] printed a simple propeller as a demo, with the hub printed more or less traditionally while the blades are added with the head at steeper and steeper angles. As you can imagine, slicing is a bit of a mind-bender, and there are some practical problems such as print cooling, which [Joshua] addresses by piping in compressed air. You’ll want to see this in action, so check out the video below.

This is a fantastic bit of work, and hats off to [Joshua] for working through all the complexities to bring us the first really new thing we’ve seen in 3D printing is a long time.

Thanks to [Keith Olson], [grythumn],  [Hari Wiguna], and [MrSVCD] for the near-simultaneous tips on this one.

The world of the overclocker contains many arcane tweaks to squeeze the last drops of performance from a computer, many of which require expert knowledge to understand. Happily for Raspberry Pi 5 owners the Pi engineers have come up with a set of tweaks you don’t have to be an overclocker to benefit from, working on the DRAM timings to extract a healthy speed boost. Serial Pi hacker [Jeff Geerling] has tested them and thinks they should be good for as much as 20% boost on a stock board. When overclocked to 3.2 GHz, he found an unbelievable 32% increase in performance.

We’re not DRAM experts here at Hackaday, but as we understand it they have been using timings from the Micron data sheets designed to play it safe. In consultation with Micron engineers they were able to use settings designed to be much faster, we gather by monitoring RAM temperature to ensure the chips stay within their parameters. Best of all, there’s no need to get down and dirty with the settings, and they can be available to all with a firmware update. It’s claimed this will help Pi 4 owners to some extent as well as those with a Pi 5, so even slightly older boards get some love. So if you have a Pi 5, don’t wait for the Pi 6, upgrade today, for free!

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