Modern e-readers such as the Amazon Kindle are incredible pieces of engineering, but that doesn’t mean there’s no room for improvement. A device custom-built to your own specifications is always going to provide a more satisfying experience than something purchased off the shelf. That’s why [fel88] put together this custom e-reader which offers a number of unique features, such as a solar panel on the back and button-free operation.

One issue with modern e-readers, at least as [fel88] sees it, is that they have a lot of unnecessary features. This project removes most of them, stripping down the device to its core functionality: a straightforward menu for selecting books and gesture-sensing for navigating the menu as well as changing the pages. The only physical input on the device is a small reed switch to turn the device on. A 3D printed case holds the e-ink display and encloses the inner workings, driven by an Arduino Mega 2560 and powered by three lithium-ion capacitors (LICs) and a small solar panel.

By dropping all of the unnecessary features, the device doesn’t need to waste energy with things like WiFi or Bluetooth and can get around 880 pages on a single charge, not counting any extra energy coming in through the solar panel while it’s operating. The LICs will also theoretically improve its life cycle as well. If you’re still stuck with a paperweight when you formerly had a working e-reader, though, there are plenty of ways to bring old devices back to life as well.

What does one do when frustrated at the lack of affordable, open source portable trackers? If you’re [OG-star-tech], you design your own and give it modular features that rival commercial offerings while you’re at it.

What’s a star tracker? It’s a method of determining position based on visible stars, but when it comes to astrophotography the term refers to a sort of hardware-assisted camera holder that helps one capture stable long-exposure images. This is done by moving the camera in such a way as to cancel out the effects of the Earth’s rotation. The result is long-exposure photographs without the stars smearing themselves across the image.

Interested? Learn more about the design by casting an eye over the bill of materials at the GitHub repository, browsing the 3D-printable parts, and maybe check out the assembly guide. If you like what you see, [OG-star-tech] says you should be able to build your own very affordably if you don’t mind 3D printing parts in ASA or ABS. Prefer to buy a kit or an assembled unit? [OG-star-tech] offers them for sale.

Frustration with commercial offerings (or lack thereof) is a powerful motive to design something or contribute to an existing project, and if it leads to more people enjoying taking photos of the night sky and all the wonderful things in it, so much the better.

[JanTec Engineering] was fascinated by the idea of using a 3D printer’s hot end to inject voids and channels in the infill with molten plastic, leading to stronger prints without the need to insert hardware or anything else. Inspiration came from two similar ideas: z-pinning which creates hollow vertical channels that act as reinforcements when filled with molten plastic by the hot end, and VoxelFill (patented by AIM3D) which does the same, but with cavities that are not uniform for better strength in different directions. Craving details? You can read the paper on z-pinning, and watch VoxelFill in (simulated) action or browse the VoxelFill patent.

With a prominent disclaimer that his independent experiments are not a copy of VoxelFill nor are they performing or implying patent infringement, [JanTec] goes on to use a lot of custom G-code (and suffers many messy failures) to perform some experiments and share what he learned.

One big finding is that one can’t simply have an empty cylinder inside the print and expect to fill it all up in one go. Molten plastic begins to cool immediately after leaving a 3D printer’s nozzle, and won’t make it very far down a deep hole before it cools and hardens. One needs to fill a cavity periodically rather than all in one go. And it’s better to fill it from the bottom-up rather than from the top-down.

He got better performance by modifying his 3D printer’s hot end with an airbrush nozzle, which gave about 4 mm of extra length to work with. This extra long nozzle could reach down further into cavities, and fill them from the bottom-up for better results. Performing the infill injection at higher temperatures helped fill the cavities more fully, as well.

Another thing learned is that dumping a lot of molten plastic into a 3D print risks deforming the print because the injected infill brings a lot of heat with it. This can be mitigated by printing the object with more perimeters and a denser infill so that there’s more mass to deal with the added heat, but it’s still a bit of a trouble point.

[JanTec] put his testing hardware to use and found that parts with infill injection were noticeably more impact resistant than without. But when it came to stiffness, an infill injected part resisted bending only a little better than a part without, probably because the test part is very short and the filled cavities can’t really shine in that configuration.

These are just preliminary results, but got him thinking there are maybe there are possibilities with injecting materials other than the one being used to print the object itself. Would a part resist bending more if it were infill injected with carbon-fibre filament? We hope he does some follow-up experiments; we’d love to see the results.

One can 3D print with conductive filament, and therefore plausibly create passive components like resistors. But what about active components, which typically require semiconductors? Researchers at MIT demonstrate working concepts for a resettable fuse and logic gates, completely 3D printed and semiconductor-free.

Now just to be absolutely clear — these are still just proofs of concept. To say they are big and perform poorly compared to their semiconductor equivalents would be an understatement. But they do work, and they are 100% 3D printed active electronic components, using commercially-available filament.

How does one make a working resettable fuse and transistor out of such stuff? By harnessing thermal expansion, essentially.

The conductive filament the researchers used is Electrifi by Multi3D, which is PLA combined with copper micro-particles. A segment printed in this filament is normally very conductive due to the densely-packed particles, but as temperature increases (beginning around 40° C) the polymer begins to soften and undergoes thermal expansion. This expansion separates the copper particles, causing a dramatic increase in electrical resistance as electrical pathways are disrupted. That’s pretty neat, but what really ties it together is that this behavior is self-resetting, and reversible. As long as the PLA isn’t straight up melted (that is to say, avoids going over about 150° C) then as the material cools it contracts and restores the conductive pathways to their original low-resistance state. Neat!

So where does the heat required come from? Simply passing enough current through the junction will do the job. By carefully controlling the size and shape of traces (something even hobbyist filament-based 3D printers are very good at) this effect can be made predictable and repeatable.

The simpler of the two test components uses the resistance spike as a self-resetting fuse. The printed component is designed such that current above a threshold triggers a surge in resistance, preventing damage to some theoretical circuitry downstream. As long as the component is not destroyed by heating it to the point that it melts, it self-resets as it cools.

The transistor is a bit more interesting. By designing two paths so that they intersect each other, one can be used as a control path and the other as a signal path. Applying a voltage to the control path electrically controls the resistance of the signal path, effectively acting as a transistor. Researchers combined these basic transistors into NOT, AND, and OR gates. One is shown here.

This whole system is scalable, low-cost, and highly accessible to just about anyone with some basic equipment. Of course, it has some drawbacks. The switching speed is slow (seconds rather than nanoseconds) and being thermally-driven means power consumption is high. Still, it’s pretty nifty stuff. Check out the research paper for all the nitty-gritty details.

We’ve seen 3D printed triboelectric generators so it’s pretty exciting to now see printed active electronic components. Maybe someday they can be combined?