Split flap displays! They’re mechanical, clickety-clackity, and largely commercially irrelevant in our screen-obsessed age. That doesn’t mean you can’t have a ball making one of your own, though! [Morgan Manly] did just that, with tidy results.

An ESP32 C3 SuperMini serves as the boss of the operation, running the whole display. The display is designed to be modular, so you can daisy chain multiple characters together to spell longer words. Each module has 37 characters, so it can display the alphabet, numerals 0 to 9, and a blank. Each module contains a 28BYJ-48 stepper motor for controlling the flaps, and a ULN2003 driver board to run it and a PCF8575 IO expander to handle communciation. An A3144 hall effect sensor is also used for positional feedback to ensure the display always shows the right character. The flap mechanism itself is relatively straightforward—a drum with all 37 flaps is until the correct character is reached, with the blank flaps hosting a magnet to trigger the aforementioned hall effect sensor. The flaps themselves are 3D-printed, with filament changes used to color the characters against the background.

If you’ve ever dreamed of building a flap-display clock or ticker, you needn’t dream of finding the perfect vintage example. You can just build your own! The added bonus is that you can make it as big or as small as you like. We’ve seen some interesting variations on the split flap concept recently, too. If you’re cooking up your own kooky electromechanical displays, don’t hesitate to let us know!

LoRa gear can be great for doing radio communications in a light-weight and low-power way. However, it can also work over great distances if you have the right hardware—and the right antennas in particular. [taste_the_code] has been experimenting in this regard, and whipped up a simple yagi antenna that can work at distances of up to 40 kilometers.

The basic mathematics behind the yagi antenna are well understood. To that end, [taste_the_code] used a simple online calculator to determine the correct dimensions to build a yagi out of 2 mm diameter wire that was tuned for the relevant frequency of 868 MHz. The build uses a 3D-printed boom a handle and holes for inserting each individual wire element in the right spot—with little measuring required once the wires are cut, since the print is dimensionally accurate. It was then just a matter of wiring it up to the right connector to suit the gear.

The antenna was tested with a Reyas RYLR998 module acting as a base station, with the DIY yagi hooked up to a RYLR993 module in the field. In testing, [taste_the_code] was able to communicate reliably from 40 kilometers away.

We’ve featured some other unique LoRa antenna builds before, too. Video after the break.

There are a whole bunch of different ways to create 3D scans of objects these days. Researchers at the [UW Graphics Lab] have demonstrated how to use a small, cheap time-of-flight sensor to generate scans effectively.

The key is in how time-of-flight sensors work. They shoot out a distinct pulse of light, and then determine how long that pulse takes to bounce back. This allows them to perform a simple ranging calculation to determine how far they are from a surface or object.

However, in truth, these sensors aren’t measuring distance to a single point. They’re measuring the intensity of the received return pulse over time, called the “transient histogram”, and then processing it. If you use the full mathematical information in the histogram, rather than just the range figures, it’s possible to recreate 3D geometry as seen by the sensor, through the use of some neat mathematics and a neural network. It’s all explained in great detail in the research paper.

The technique isn’t perfect; there are some inconsistencies with what it captures and the true geometry of the objects its looking at. Still, the technique is young, and more work could refine its outputs further.

If you don’t mind getting messy, there are other neat scanning techniques out there—like using a camera and some milk.

Carving pumpkins by hand is hot, sweaty, messy work, and a great way to slice your way into a critical artery. Why not let a water jet do it for you? It’ll be cleaner and more precise to boot, and [Jo_Journey] is here to show us how. 

Obviously, you’ll need a water jet machine, there’s no getting around that. You’ll also still have to do the basic preparation of the pumpkin yourself—cutting a porthole into the top and mucking it out is your job. With that done, you must then mount the pumpkin on two metal rods which will be used to mount it in the water jet machine’s working area.

You can then create a vector file of your design, and use your chosen software to generate the G-code to run the water jet. [Jo_Journey] uses Scribe, and recommends cutting at a speed of around 200 in/min at low pressure. Remember, it’s pumpkin you’re cutting, not high-strength steel.

There is some inaccuracy, of course—your pumpkin’s surface is not a flat plane, after all—but the results are good enough for most Halloween-related purposes. Even despite the geometrical issues, though, [Jo_Journey] shows us that you can get pleasantly sharp edges on your design. That’s very hard to achieve by hand!

We do love a good holiday hack around these parts, even if it’s out of season. If you’ve been cooking up your own pumpkinous plans, don’t hesitate to let us know! Earlier is sometimes better—after all, who has time to hack together a project if you’ve just read about it on October 29?

[Chris Borge] was doing some fine tapping operations, and wanted a better way to position his workpieces. This was critical to avoid breaking taps or damaging parts. To this end, he whipped up a switchable magnetic vice to do the job.

The key to the build is that the magnetic field can be switched on and off mechanically. This is achieved by having two sets of six magnets each. When the poles of both sets of magnets are aligned, the magnetic field is effectively “on.” When the poles are moved to oppose each other, they effectively cancel each other out, turning the field “off.” [Chris] achieved this functionality with 12 bar magnets, 12 M12 nuts, and a pair of 3D-printed rings. Rotating the rings between two alignments serves to switch the set up on or off. The actual switching mechanism is handled with a cam and slider setup which allowed [Chris] to build a convenient vice with a nice large working area. He also took special effort to ensure the device wouldn’t pick up large amounts of ferrous swarf that would eventually clog the mechanism.

It’s a neat build, and one you can easily recreate yourself. [Chris] has supplied the files online for your printing pleasure. We’ve featured some other types of magnetic vise before, too. Video after the break.

Air raid sirens have an important job to do, and have been a critical piece of public safety infrastructure in times of geopolitical turmoil. They sound quite unlike anything else, by virtue of their mechanical method of generating an extremely loud sound output. They’re actually remarkably simple to build yourself, as [MarkMakies] demonstrates.

[Mark’s] build relies almost entirely on 3D printed components and ex-RC gear. The sound itself is generated by a rotor which spins inside a stator. Each is designed with special slots, such that as the rotor turns at speed, it creates spikes of air pressure that generate a loud wail. The rotor and stator are fitted inside a housing with a horn for output, which helps direct and amplify the sound further.

To spin the rotor, [Mark] used a powerful brushless motor controlled by a common hobby speed controller. The actual speed is determined by a potentiometer, which generates pulses to command the speed controller via a simple 555 circuit. By ramping the speed of the motor up and down, it’s possible to vary the pitch of the siren as is often done with real air raid sirens. This action could be entirely automated if so desired.

If you do decide to build such a siren, just be wary about how you use it. There’s no need to go around agitating the townsfolk absent an actual air raid. It’s worth noting that sirens of this type aren’t just used for air raids, either. They’re often used for tornado warnings, too, such as in Dallas, for example. But why not for music?

You can use all kinds of numbers and rating systems to determine whether the air quality in a given room is good, bad, or somewhere in between. Or, like [Makestreme], you could go for a more human visual interface. He’s built a air quality monitor that conveys its information via facial expressions on a small screen.

Named Gus, the monitor is based around a Xiao ESP32-C3. It’s hooked up with the SeeedStudio Grove air quality sensor, which can pick up everything from carbon monoxide to a range of vaguely toxic and volatile gases. There’s also a THT22 sensor for measuring temperature and humidity. It’s all wrapped up in a cute 3D-printed robot housing that [Makestreme] created in Fusion 360. A small OLED display serves as Gus’s face.

The indications of poor air quality are simple and intuitive. As “Gus” detects poor air, his eyelids droop and he begins to look more gloomy. Of course, that doesn’t necessarily tell you what you should do to fix the air quality. If your issue is pollution from outside, you’ll probably want to shut windows or turn on an air purifier. On the other hand, if your issue is excess CO2, you’ll want to open a window and let fresh air in. It’s a limitation of this project that it can’t really detect particulates or CO2, but instead is limited to CO and volatiles instead. Still, it’s something that could be worked around with richer sensors a more expressive face. Some will simply prefer hard numbers, though, whatever the case. To that end, you can tap Gus’s head to get more direct information from what the sensors are seeing.

We’ve seen some other great air quality projects before, too, with remarkably similar ideas behind them. Video after the break.

[Thanks to Willem de Vries for the tip!]

The Nokia 3310 has a reputation of being one of the most indestructible devices ever crafted by humanity. It’s also woefully out of date and only usable in a handful of countries that still maintain a GSM network. It might not be easy to bring it into the 5G era, but you can at least convert it to work with modern chargers, thanks to [Andrea].

If you don’t want to buy the parts, you can just DIY the same mod. [SGCDerek] did just that a few years ago. From what it looks like, you likely don’t even need to worry about doing any fancy charger handshaking. The 3310 will happily grab a charge from a low-current 5V supply straight off the USB pins.

You might think this is a messy, complicated mod, but [Andrea] engineered it as a drop-in upgrade. He’s combined a USB-C port with a small plastic adapter that enables it to sit in place of the original phone’s charge port module.  Contact between the port and the rest of the phone is via spring-loaded contacts. The only additional step necessary is popping out the mic from the original charge module and putting it in the new one. You need only a screw driver to disassemble the phone, swap out the parts, and put it all back together.

If you want to upgrade your own handset, [Andrea] is more than happy to provide the parts for a reasonable price of 25 euros. It’s almost worth it just for the laughs—head around to your friend’s house, ask to borrow a charger, and then plug in your USB-C 3310. You’ll blow some minds.

Once upon a time, it was big news that someone hacked a USB-C port into the iPhone. Video after the break.

The cool thing about the droids of Star Wars is that they’re not that hard to recreate in real life. R2-D2 is a popular choice, but you can even build yourself a neat little BB-8 if you’re so inclined. [Piyush] has built a particularly compelling example that’s transparent, which lets you see the internals and how it all works.

The build makes creative use of a pair of Christmas ornaments. They are perhaps the cheapest and easiest way to source a clear plastic sphere. One serves as the “head”, while the other serves as the larger spherical body. Inside, an Arduino Pro Micro is running the show. It’s hooked up to a L293D motor driver which runs the drive motors and the reaction wheel motor which provides stability, while a separate MOSFET is on hand to run the gear motor which controls the head.

There’s also an HC-05 module for Bluetooth communication, and a BNO055 sensor for motion tracking and ensuring the robot stays the right way up. 3D printed components are used prodigiously to cram everything together tightly enough to fit. There’s even a printed charging base to juice up the little droid. Controlling the robot is as simple as using a smartphone with an app created in the MIT App Inventor.

If you’ve never built a spherical rolling robot before—and few of us have—this design is a great reference for your own work. We’ve seen a few BB-8s over the years, most of which dropped shortly after the movie was released.

If you’re taking any medication, you probably need to take it in a certain dose on a certain schedule. It can quickly become difficult to keep track of when you’re taking multiple medications. To that end, [Mellow_Labs] built an automated pill dispenser to deliver the right pills on time, every time.

The pill dispenser is constructed out of 3D printed components. As shown, it has two main bins for handling two types of pills, controlled with N20 gear motors. The bins spin until a pill drops through a slot into the bottom of the unit, with the drop detected by a piezo sensor. It uses a Beetle ESP32 as the brains of the operation, which is hooked up with a DS1307 real-time clock to ensure it’s dosing out pills at the right time. It’s also wired up with a DRV8833 motor driver to allow it to run the gear motors. The DRV8833 can run up to four motors in unidirectional operation, so you can easily expand the pill dispenser up to four bins if so desired.

We particularly like how the pill dispenser is actually controlled — [Mellow_Labs] used the ESP32 to host a simple web interface which is used for setting the schedule on which each type of pill should be dispensed.

We’ve featured some other pill dispenser builds before, too.

Thanks to [Prankhouz] for the tip!

Blinds are great for keeping light out or letting light in on demand, but few of us appreciate having to walk over and wind them open and shut on the regular. [DIY Builder] resented this very task, so set about creating an automated system to do the job for him.

The blinds in question use a ball chain to open and close, which made them relatively easy to interface with mechanically. [DIY Builder] set up a NEMA 17 stepper motor with an appropriate 3D-printed gear to interface with the chain, allowing it to move the blinds accurately. The motor is controlled via an Arduino Nano and an A4988 stepper motor driver.

However, that only covered the mechanical side of things. [DIY Builder] wanted to take the build a step further by making the blinds voice activated. To achieve this, the Arduino Nano was kitted out with a DFRobot Gravity voice recognition module. It’s a super simple way to do voice recognition—it’s an entirely offline solution with no cloud computing or internet connection required. You just set it up to respond to simple commands and it does the rest.

The result is a voice activated blind that works reliably whether your internet is up or not. We’ve seen some other great projects in this space, too. Video after the break.

Mechanical switches are pretty easy to understand—the contacts touch, the current flows, and Bob is, presumably, your uncle. But what about soft switches? Well, they’re not that difficult to understand either, as explained by [EDN].

The traditional softswitch takes input from a momentary single-pole pushbutton and lets you press to toggle power on and off. This operation is easy to achieve with a simple flip-flop constructed with old-school logic to create a “bistable” circuit. That means it will happily remain stable in one of two states unless you do something to make it switch.

So far, so simple. However, you’ll need to consider that a simple mechanical pushbutton tends to have an issue with the contacts bouncing as they come into contact. If ignored, this would see your softswitch rapidly flicking on and off at times, which is no good at all. To avoid this, you simply need hook up an RC network to smooth out or “debounce” the button input.

Read the post for the full circuit dynamics, as well as how to make the system work with a touchpad instead of a pushbutton. It’s rare to construct such elements from raw logic these days, what with microcontrollers making everything so easy. Still, if you want or need to do it, the old techniques still work just fine! There’s more than one way to solve the problem, of course.

LEDs were once little more than weedy little indicators with low light output. Today, they’re absolute powerhouses, efficiently turning a flow of electrons into a searing beam of light. Despite their efficiency, they can still put out a fair whack of heat. Thus, if you’re building a powerful flashlight like [CrazyScience], you might wanna throw some active cooling on there just to keep things happy. Check out the video below.

The build will not be unfamiliar to any casual observer of the modern DIY flashlight scene. It uses a flatpack LED module of great brightness and a wad of 18650 lithium-ion cells to provide the juice to run it. The LED itself is mounted in a 3D-printed frame, which leaves its rear exposed, and a small PC fan is mounted for air cooling. It’s not the most optimized design, as airflow out of the fan is somewhat restricted by the 3D-printed housing, but it’s a lot better than simple passive cooling. It allows the torch to be more compact without requiring a huge heatsink to keep the LED at an acceptable temperature.

The final torch doesn’t have the most ergonomic form factor, but it does work. However, as a learning project for a new maker, it’s a start, and the learning value of building something functional can’t be understated. If your desire for flashlights swerves to the more powerful, we’ve covered those, too. Just be careful out there.

[Azpaca] purchased a fun little toy car from Tamiya, only… there was a problem. The little off-roader wasn’t up to scratch—despite its four-wheel-drive, it couldn’t get over rough ground to save its life. Thus, it was time to 3D-print a better chassis that could actually get through it!

The problem was quite obvious. With no suspension and a rigid chassis, the vehicle would tend to end up with one or more wheels on the air on rough surfaces. To rectify this, [Azpaca] created a twisting chassis which would allow the wheels to better remain in contact with the ground. The design is relatively straightforward, and reuses much of the original drivetrain, including the simple brushed motor. However, with a pivot right behind the front wheels, it has much more traction on rocks and gravel, and can traverse these terrains much more easily.

Tamiya’s motorized toys aren’t particularly well known in the West, but it’s neat to see the community that exists around modifying them around the world. Design files are available for the curious. If you’re not down with mods, perhaps you’d prefer to print your own cars from scratch. Video after the break.

When you’re spitting out G-Code for a 3D print, you can pick all kinds of infill settings. You can choose the pattern, and the percentage… but the vast majority of slicers all have one thing in common. They all print layer by layer, infill and all. What if there was another way?

There’s been a lot of chatter in the 3D printing world about the potential of non-planar prints. Following this theme, [TenTech] has developed a system for non-planar infill. This is where the infill design is modulated with sinusoidal waves in the Z axis, such that it forms a somewhat continuous bond between what would otherwise be totally seperate layers of the print. This is intended to create a part that is stronger in the Z direction—historically a weakness of layer-by-layer FDM parts.

Files are on Github for the curious, and currently, it only works with Prusaslicer. Ultimately, it’s interesting work, and we can’t wait to see where it goes next. What we really need is a comprehensive and scientific test regime on the tensile strength of parts printed using this technique. We’ve featured some other neat work in this space before, too. Video after the break.

Redbox was a company with a moderately interesting business model—it let you rent DVDs from automated kiosks. It’s an idea so simple it’s almost surprising it didn’t appear sooner. Only, it did—all the way back in the VHS age!

Meet the Video Vendor. YouTuber [SpaceTime Junction] was able to track down one of these rare machines, which apparently formerly served an Ohio rental outlet called Kohnen’s. It’s a monstrous thing that stands taller and about three times wider than traditional vending machines, and it could hold up to 320 tapes in its robotic magazine. It’s got lashings of woodgrain, a green-on-black CRT, and the beautiful kind of clicky keys that went away after the 1980s.

[SpaceTime Junction] has a bunch of videos up on the machine, and you even get to see it powered up.  It’s a little difficult to see what’s going on, because the machine is something like nine feet wide and it’s all shot in vertical video. There isn’t a whole lot of content on these obscurities out there, so this is a great place to start. Apparently, there were recently a hundred or more of these found living in a Texas warehouse according to Reddit, so we might see more of these popping up online soon. [SpaceTime Junction] has toured that facility, too.

You can read more about the fall of Redbox, or the cleanup afterwards, in our prior coverage.

These days, turn-by-turn GPS navigation isn’t considered special anymore. It’s in every smartphone and most cheap rental cars, and thus everybody expects you to figure out where you’re going. If you want a simpler and less robust navigation experience, you might like to try the rather fancy RadioScout.

The RadioScout is a build from [hardlyhumanfx]—a group of engineers and artists that collaborate on fun and whimsical projects. It looks like some kind of steampunk compass, and it kind of is—but at heart, it’s powered by GPS.

You program the RadioScout using the buttons on the front panel and a rotary phone dial to enter the latitude and longitude of your destination. It then uses an internal GPS receiver to compare that with your current location, and calculates a direct bearing to where you want to go. This bearing is displayed with a large compass-like needle run by a stepper motor, and you you can use it to guide yourself onwards.

It’s an attractive build that uses lots of neat parts. The team interfaced a microcontroller with a GPS receiver, a rotary dial, and 7-segment LEDs for the latitude and longitude display. The very real bell is neat, too. The whole thing is wrapped up in a brass and wooden case that would make you a star at just about any sci-fi convention. The build video is a little vague on the finer details, but experienced makers will be able to figure out how it all works.

You can actually buy a RadioScout if it’s something you must have, but one suspects the Hackaday set would probably prefer the homebrew route.

@hardlyhumanfx

#steampunk gps i designed and built. this is just a rough prototype

♬ original sound – HardlyHumanFX

@hardlyhumanfx

as promised, a field test of the antique working GPS system I built! Available to buy now on our website HardlyHumanFX.com #steampunk #fallout #vintage

♬ original sound – HardlyHumanFX

Thanks to [Charles] for the tip!

The Timex Sinclair 1000 was a sleek and compact machine, and the US counterpart to the more well-known Spectrum ZX-81. Timex may not have come to dominate the computer market, but the machine still has its fans today, with [skidlz] being one of them. That inspired them to craft a new case and keyboard for their beloved machine, putting a slimline twist on the old classic.

The new case finds some economies of size by eliminating the bulky RF modulator in favor of hacking in a cleaner composite out feed. In turn, this enabled the elimination of the channel switch that freed up more room. [skidlz] then designed a simple case using 2D laser-cut parts and dovetail joints, using superglue to assemble the individual pieces into a cohesive whole.

Meanwhile, the keyboard swap is obvious to anyone that ever used one of these things. The original was particularly unpleasant. In order to upgrade, [skidlz] decided to look to the compact Redragon K603 as an inspiration, giving the new build a longer travel and a nicer mechanical feel under one’s fingers.

The final result look great, and files are on Github for the curious. We’ve seen great work from [skidlz] before, too, in the form of this microcassette storage project. Meanwhile, if you’ve been cooking up your own retrocomputing projects, don’t hesitate to let us know!

Chalk is fun to draw with, and some people even get really good at using it to make art on the sidewalk. If you don’t like tediously developing such skills, though, you could go another route. [MrDadVs] built a robot to scrawl chalk pictures for him, and the results speak for themselves.

The robot is known as AP for reasons you’ll have to watch the video to understand. You might be imagining a little rover that crawls around on wheels dotting at the pavement with a stick of chalk, but the actual design is quite different. Instead, [MrDadVs] effectively built a polar-coordinate plotter to make chalk pictures on the ground. AP has a arm loaded with a custom liquid chalk delivery system for marking the pavement. It’s rotated by a stepper motor with the aid of a 3D-printed geartrain that helps give it enough torque. It’s controlled by an ESP32 running the FluidNC software which is a flexible open-source CNC firmware. [MrDadVs] does a great job of explaining how everything works together, from converting cartesian coordinates into a polar format, to getting the machine to work wirelessly.

Building a capable sidewalk chalk robot seems like a great way to spend six months. Particularly when it can draw this well. Video after the break.

[Thanks to Antoine Leblond for the tip!]